Jump to content
SAU Community

Importing An R34 Gtr

TBee
 Share

Recommended Posts

TBee Community Regular

TBee

Posted
Posted

Im gonna try convince my old boy that he needs to get himself an R34 that some of his mates at work showed him the other day online.

Do you have to get legit Brembo brake pads and brand new tyres when you bring the car in intially? What sort of cash are Brembo pads worth?

Any info would be great so I can try convince him that he really needs a 34. Reckon he's only have interested cos he thinks he'll be quicker than my 32 GTR!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91061-importing-an-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted (edited)

Brake pads and or rotors dont have to be changed if they are still good ( must be better than 50% left on pads and rotors within specs ) . It must have stock pads/rotors not aftermarket , front pads about $1000 from Nissan .

The car must be all stock to comply, no aftermarket parts and no previous body damage/rust unless on bolt on panels . New stock size tyres ( 245x40x18 ) on stock gtr rims 18x9 , even if it has new tyres fitted in japan you still need new tyres !

Edited by wrxhoon
Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

I'm sure if you go through a workshop that know's the guys at the RTA you could get by with a couple of things, mine had a couple of little panel dings (that still haven't been fixed) and they didn't seem to have an issue.. Just put some stock tires on than take them off when finished.. Borrow some off someone..

Depends on how you want to do it.. personally i'd want everything up to spec..

Tosh Grand Master

Tosh

Posted
Posted

R34 GTR's cannot be complied with Xenon Headlights. You need to put the non-Xenon's in. Some dodgy places will convert the Xenon to a non-Xenon light and get passed it that way but that is THE biggest waste of good Xenon lights I've ever heard of. Just put the Non-Xenon's in for compliance and then swap them back to the Xenon's after.

They cannot be complied with Xenon's because they are not self adjusting. They are only manually height adjustable. ADR's specify that Xenon or HID Headlights must be automatically height adjustable.

  • 3 weeks later...
t01-100 Mentor

t01-100

Posted
Posted

Wouldn't it be nice to see the Fed Government put funding into developing systems to ensure old crap heaps are removed from the road than checking to see that fundamentally 'new' cars fitted with a particular brand of brake pad, rotor and tyre!

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

BL01, you complied your own car? So you're a compliancer?

The law says the non compliant parts that don't meet ADR's or haven't been tested have to be disposed/destroyed. Whether it happens and if you end up with em again is totally dependant on how leniant and/or how daring the compliancer is willing to be. Some compliancers sell the parts back to you at a hugely discounted rate ($1 etc) just to be semi legal.

Its totally within the compliancers rights to tell you that you won't get your Xenon's back as they aren't ADR compliant.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

when i complied my own car. I had most of the mods taken out and returned to stock. My mods are returned to me in the end.

Nobody tell me that. I saw it myself with my own eyes. Unless you got ripped by your compliance shop.

[/quote)

When you get your car complied , the raw usualy converts your xenons to halogens , even if the compliencer gives you back the balasts ( they should destroy them like funky said ) you cant reconvert because they use the existing globe fiting to fit a halogen globe in it . You cant take the halogen globe out and fit the xenon globe back in because the fiting is modified and the xenon globe wont fit back in .

I never got ripped off by anyone , i have a 34 gtr with xenons that comply with adr ( self leveling and washers fitted ) .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...