Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks SK!!

Was hoping you could shed some light on this issue. As you could see we knew the CDI system must be superior but wasn't sure why and what benefits it would provide. The Autronics CDI with MSD coils seems popular. Motec must be a top of the line product as well

Well there goes my spitfire coils then, can't use it with the CDI setup. ;)

Would this system help in better economy, I understand that it produces a better burn so effiency would be better but the figures you have shown are in the higher rpm range.

If this saves on fuel cost's, then maybe in the long term it would help offset the cost. What about low rpm range, like highway driving?

I can see why it's not on the hot list for power increases, @$1600 (CDI & Coils) for only @40bhp but the other benefits look attractive as well.

What you think?

:) cheers :)

Adam

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Not good then.

I really wanted to get to that 600HP mark but now I'm scared that my gearbox will not hold. Wouldn't mind spending the money on the OS Giken gearset if mine went but one day I'd like a GTR R34 and wanted to transplate as much gear as possible from my GTR R33. With the 6 speed Getrag box in the R34 you can't transplate it.

What are your thoughts on fixing the problem?

Second hand boxes are going cheap....

LESS POWER..... ;)

Alot of people are trying to get more POWER!!! B)

Trying to get less is.......can't even say the words.

Well I'm making around 560hp and my box is holding up, I might be making more then 560hp anyway cause I did an exhaust upgrade and really felt the difference but I haven't a dyno result to prove it.

Keep us informed on how it goes.

Best of luck with the gearbox anyway.

Edited by WetGTR
Yeh looks like another 32 gtr box going in . Might have to run less power on the street to keep the box together.

haah, lol, u r too viscous on the gearbox simon ive seen your driving b4 :) maybe doing a 1st to 3rd gear, drift on the previous corner helped haha jk

gets expensive when u buy a new gearbox each week ;)

Wow 1480 kgs is pretty light, was that with an empty tank and what sort of cage does it have?

;) cheers :)

I weighed my R32 GT-R at Calder 2 weeks ago (Thanks to Stephen) and it came up at 1554kgs with a full tank and no driver.

Regards

Andrew

I weighed my R32 GT-R at Calder 2 weeks ago (Thanks to Stephen) and it came up at 1554kgs with a full tank and no driver.

Regards

Andrew

Thats 74kg heavier then mine although i only had 1/4 tank of fuel. I've taken all my hicass pumps and lines out which could be about 20kg and one turbo would be lighter then 2 i would say.

Time to try that cryogenic treatment Simon, might just do the trick.. and its not too expensive, so its worth a try ;)

Get Steve to rip a box open and take down the gearset and get it done.

Does this stuff work?

What would the cost be?

Wouldn't be bad to get i done before it chews a gearset up.

  • 2 weeks later...
Going to try it

Congrats simon, that's an awesome resujlt!!! :)

I don't see 650-680rwhp being out the question with more boost (although i'd imagine 700 would be pushing it).

Those are some very impressive times you've run at the strip... i'm surprised they didn't kick you out for running faster than a 10.99? :)

As for the comment on running CDI with autronics to achieve over 500rwhp... well over 500rwhp is possible without it, its just a lot more fooling around (ie. getting very precise ign/fuel maps) to get the car running smoothly at the higher power levels, and whether or not you want to risk missfires at high rpm/power outputs...

Also, sydney kid, thanks for the info on your experiences with CDI... alot of it makes sense when you think about it! :)

Edit: Simon, how do you find the Nismo twin plate? Reasonably easy to drive? The reason I ask is for my own project... I'm looking into twin plates for it, and basically whatever comes up for the right price... most have been OS Giken's and Nismo's for the nissan boxes...

Having said that, I possibly have an OS Giken sprung center twiin plate which I can buy, however, my brother said it did NOT seem "easy to drive" like most people say the OS's are... he even thought his solid center HKS triple was easier to drive. It looked fine visually.

Are there just many versions of the OS giken twins, with some being really bastard?

Sorry for the offtopic, just thought i'd ask someone who has had experience with skylines! :)

Cheers,

Christian

Edited by Wobbz

Simon,

sorry to hear about the box. How much boost do you think you will be able to run from the garret turbo, the reason i ask is after talking to Garret australia about my garret ball bearing turbos they informed me the turbos were rated to 2 bar which doesnt leave a lot of room to move 3 to 4 psi more from your current 24psi yeah.

pete

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...