Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I have decided to sell the R33 at the end of the year, because I'll be looking to buy a house.

Just letting everyone know in advance, incase they are after parts, I will be taking the car back to stock as modded cars are too hard to sell for what they are worth.

Parts that will be available are as follows:

Z32 AFM & Plug

HKS GTRS Turbo

Nismo 550cc Injectors

3" JJR Bellmouth Front/Dump pipe

Kakimoto Regu 06&R Cat Back

Apexi PowerFC with Commander and Electronic Boost Controller

Splitfire Coilpacks

Nismo Fuel Pump

Cold Air Box

HICAS Lockbar

Will post up closer to these parts being available. Just giving a heads up, as I know what it's like when you buy brand new parts and the next week good second hand parts become available.

Start saving! :down:

  • 2 weeks later...

31's driveable and seeing the odd short trip, lots of little jobs left though. Like paint/fit front bar, lip, roll and paint both rear quarters and paint both front guards; pull leaking front pipe off and get welded up ('perfect condition' secondhand BATMBL dump I bought for a fair amount of dough leaked from the word go around the wastegate pipe...), wheel align, solid subframe and diff mounts, and proper tune.

But it goes, skids and sounds angry, haha.

31's driveable and seeing the odd short trip, lots of little jobs left though. Like paint/fit front bar, lip, roll and paint both rear quarters and paint both front guards; pull leaking front pipe off and get welded up ('perfect condition' secondhand BATMBL dump I bought for a fair amount of dough leaked from the word go around the wastegate pipe...), wheel align, solid subframe and diff mounts, and proper tune.

But it goes, skids and sounds angry, haha.

SO in other words look out the streets of Hobart :)

Picked up my new 040 from SPG last week so all that leaves is tuning of the blue bucket :)

Well, rear subframe bushes let go, ordered some new ones but got sent wrong ones.

Made some phonecalls and was told Nolathane were outta stock till mid July. Now I am told its mid August...

So I decided to pull the front end apart and replace the LHF Inner Driveshaft boot. Easy enough job, except nobody has a boot that fits... Spose my local Nissan dealer will tell me they are about $90 each and 4 weeks outta Japan next for a genuine one.

So the GTR is sitten on stands with bits missing everywhere and the Baskerville Hillclimb is on in three weeks. This will be pushin it to get everything here and done by then.

Dude that is F'n harsh!

What about the RB25 thats for sale??

Didn't want to go RB25 as none of my parts (cams, gears, injectors etc) would fit, would need a new ecu and turbo not ideal either.

Well, rear subframe bushes let go, ordered some new ones but got sent wrong ones.

Made some phonecalls and was told Nolathane were outta stock till mid July. Now I am told its mid August...

So I decided to pull the front end apart and replace the LHF Inner Driveshaft boot. Easy enough job, except nobody has a boot that fits... Spose my local Nissan dealer will tell me they are about $90 each and 4 weeks outta Japan next for a genuine one.

So the GTR is sitten on stands with bits missing everywhere and the Baskerville Hillclimb is on in three weeks. This will be pushin it to get everything here and done by then.

I know the feeling, i order some gear for the FC from Rare Spares and they sent me the wrong items, when i rang to let them know they informed me that they didn't have what i needed instock and that it would be 12 weeks before they would have what i needed :rolleyes:

well, my mate fixed my powerfc so kermit is back in action! hoping to enter basky hillclimb too which should be fun :)

Glad to hear its all sorted, lets hope nothing else happens now :bunny:

Well thankfully I managed to fit the aftermarket boot to the driveshaft. Looks like it will work for now.

So as long as I can either get the bushes from Nolathane or temp up some "pineapples" I should be good for the Basky Hillclimb yet again.

Well thankfully I managed to fit the aftermarket boot to the driveshaft. Looks like it will work for now.

So as long as I can either get the bushes from Nolathane or temp up some "pineapples" I should be good for the Basky Hillclimb yet again.

The race is on, i have to remove old engine and put on stand to remove cams, injectors, gears and covers. Tidy up engine bay whilst its out and then when new engine arrives fit cams, injectors, gears and covers before dropping that back in.

Have to fit 040, new seat/harness and harness tabs and then tune it so i can make the hill climb :(

Racin before the event and all... thats competitive.

Well I just selected another gear, bush kit arrived and was the correct one this time.

Just arranged shed space, as mine is full at the moment, for this Saturday to fit em all up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...