Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

$budget $3k insurance

rego in VIC is like $400-$500 dont know bout QLD

tyres, depends on rims, and quality of tyres....

fuel, $50 -$100 a week, depends how much you drive, how hard etc...

factor in loan repayments

need money for general maintenance and also for problems....

mods if you want any.

stereo equip, alarm equip etc

yeah thats kinda why im gonna buy it out right, so i dont have to worry about repayments, and as for driving it, 50 bucks a week on fuel should do it, its mostly round town driving, plus i dont like being in debt...gives ya the feeling.....tah bad one

yeah thats kinda why im gonna buy it out right, so i dont have to worry about repayments, and as for driving it, 50 bucks a week on fuel should do it, its mostly round town driving, plus i dont like being in debt...gives ya the feeling.....tah bad one

save up another 5 K and your laughing. plenty of spare parts for r32... and im sure u can afofrd the fuel!

gluck!

yeah ive got the 10 grand now because of the selling commy, so u reckon that 10 grand isnt a bad price for a 91 GTS-t R32?

i dunno id prolly save up till about 12-13K for r32, maybe a couple of more just to get one of the best examples. but hunt around and bargain, im sure you can find one for 13 K and bring it down to 12 or even lower... if ur thinking of buying soon then i suggest start scouring the net and local car yards.

also with any rather used cars, you should always have a few grand lying around just incase things go wrong (new brakes, new fuel pump etc). this was you protect yourself from any bullshit that your RACV dude failed to spot when buying the car.

so in the end put aside 12-13 K for the car, 2-3 K for the insurance and rego, and another 2 K for any bullshit u might run into in the first few months. so really it gets pricey down the track but you already knew that.

Edited by Sir-D

so which is the better way to go do you think? I know you can definatly pick one up private sale for 9 grand with a RWC, i havent looked at the dealers yet, i'm kinda in the crap-end of no where, so dealers arent everywhere.....

so which is the better way to go do you think? I know you can definatly pick one up private sale for 9 grand with a RWC, i havent looked at the dealers yet, i'm kinda in the crap-end of no where, so dealers arent everywhere.....

i doubt many dealers will have r32s... GTRs yeah but GTSTs... try those import based dealers.

PS this site has a shitload of r32s for sale.

i doubt many dealers will have r32s... GTRs yeah but GTSTs... try those import based dealers.

PS this site has a shitload of r32s for sale.

:):):P WHERE WHERE WHERE.....lol sorry bro...im new to this site, but hell yeah ill have a look

just to let you know. I'm 18 and have had one at fault claim (write off) one speeding fine and it costs me $3400 to insure my R33. I dont have many things to pay for and I'm an apprentice mechanic so if anything goes wrong its f**k all to fix really. Just have to pay for parts :)

with performance cars, there is often no 'part time driver' policies.

It is based on the youngest driver ie. YOU!, so that these things can't be dodged. I got a quote for both me as only driver, and as youngest driver, and it was the exact same amount

yeah i know......i was just seeing if there was any possible loop hole in the system....simply because i cannot afford the comprehensive option, but its clear im gonna have to go CTP, i guess sometimes you gotta sacrifice some things to have something you like.... :D

wow....$3400 is quite alot of money for a years insurance.....i figure because of the write off claim and the speeding ticket would have affected this big time?

Mate if you think that its too dear then do this: get a third party (fire and theft) cover which is around a few hundred bucks. Then get that $3000, put it in the bank, get the car, drive around as careful as can be, dont floor it like a knob and drive like a granny when in the wet. Next year put another 3 grand into the bank and hopefully you havent had any accidents and you already will have 6 grand to spend in case you had a bad accident, the year after put like another 2 grand aside and by then you would of prolly saved up enough cash for yourself to repair it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...