Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just ran up the 2E0 in my r33 gtst today. In total the kit took dad and I about 8 hours of working out where everything goes and soldering etc.

Must say we both were pretty surprised when the unit worked no problems - I'm not that good at soldering and this was my first circuit board!

It's very rewarding when it fires up though - we haven't tried any of the datalogging software as yet though - would be interesting to compare notes with you SK if you've got yours up and running.

Where we put the bung for the sensor worked out really well as you don't have to jack the car up to install it and the heat shielded cable can run up through the engine bay, out the back of the bonnet and through the passengers window really neatly and discreatly.

I haven't used a lambda sensor before and it was interesting at cruise to turn off the oxygen sensor and see how much the AFRs changed - on my car it didn't change much at all as the Apexi is tuned to run aroung the 14.7 14.8 AFR at cruise. When the 02 sensor is on I also noticed it seems to change up and down a bit more as it is allways trying to get to stolich.

Also with my new 550 cc injectors and turbo upgrade I was keen to see what the afr's were but they are pretty spot on at stolich for cruise and about 11.7 under medium load - no knock so I'm happy as I have to wait until the 3rd december for the tune.

Cheers!

post-12959-1132829741.jpg

post-12959-1132829886.jpg

post-12959-1132829966.jpg

post-12959-1132830282.jpg

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi, Glen’s Dad here.

Anyone contemplating building one of these kits should read on.

I built my amps back in the 70’s but this is a whole different story. The components have got smaller, they’re placed closer together and my eyesight is rooted. You need a top quality solder station, not that old Scope on the bench, and the final product test procedures are straight from the space shuttle.

Congratulations SK, that’s a bloody neat job.

My next project will arrive assembled, hey.

Regards.

would it be ok to place the lambda sensor where the factory sensor goes? IE i would use it all the time and use the simulated narrowband output to my ecu, not that it makes a bearing on my ECU (microtech) as it does not affect tuning at all

would be interesting to compare notes with you SK if you've got yours up and running.

I have been too busy to get back to it, we took delivery of the Dallara F3 at the conclusion of the A1 GP meeting and I have been learning how to engineer one of those things after quite a few years away form open wheelers. Sequental 6 speed, mono front shock, wings, diffusers, downforce etc. We have a shake down race this weekend at Eastern Creek to iron out the bugs (not the car, the pit crew) before the full National Championship season next year. So my own car stuff has suffered from inattention.

Plus I have had a couple of problems with my laptop which only surfaced when I was setting up the Group Buy Consult interface (that's a good simple kit). The USB to Com port software didn't want to co-operate, but that is sorted now. So I will get back to the testing and set up of the A/F meter next week.

:) cheers :)

Hi SK,

What (if anything) do you use to monitor knock whilst making adjustments on the road?

Cheers,

Matt

Hi Matt, I have a set of these;

STE-6600.jpg06600.jpg

The Steelman costs around $200, which is OK value if you use it all the time. But for around $20, this is better value for the occasional user (thanks to JE from Autospeed);

0353.jpg

Either of them make hearing pre-igniton while driving or dyno tuning very easy. There is no better knock detection than the trained/experienced human ear.

:( cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid

i reckon a group buy for the tech edge a/f ratio meter (pre assembled) and even the Steelman knock headphone things :(

i definately need one soonish, and my mate also wants one most likely.

cheers

Brad

We hooked the 2E0 up to my laptop today. We didn't do it straight away as I had to get a serial port to USB adapter as my laptop is fairly new and only came with USB's.

We're just interested in what inputs you guys use on your kits? Ie Rpm or load (AFM Voltage?)

Trying to catch it when you're driving is pretty hard - I haven't taken it for a drive with the laptop yet but it would be nice to be able to see what load point and rpm that certain AFR was!

I'm not really interested in making a mess splicing into anything - just was wondering it there's an easy way to hook up these outputs??

Cheers!

where do i find more info about the DIY detonation detector? seeing as i don't have knock sensors i reckon its pretty important i have something...

anyone willing to contact Tech Edge about doing a group buy? i was thinking about ordering one in the next few weeks, but if i can get cheaper why not!

Sydneykid - I found this on eBay, a wireless version of the steelman chassisear!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-STEELMA...sspagenameZWD2V

Complete overkill I reckon..

Yanks :D , they just HAVE to have the latest wiz bang shit.

We hooked the 2E0 up to my laptop today. We didn't do it straight away as I had to get a serial port to USB adapter as my laptop is fairly new and only came with USB's.

We're just interested in what inputs you guys use on your kits? Ie Rpm or load (AFM Voltage?)

Trying to catch it when you're driving is pretty hard - I haven't taken it for a drive with the laptop yet but it would be nice to be able to see what load point and rpm that certain AFR was!

I'm not really interested in making a mess splicing into anything - just was wondering it there's an easy way to hook up these outputs??

I usually use both RPM and AFM voltage as they are the axis on the injection map. With a bit of practise you can then identify which load points need to be tuned. Speeds up the tuning process heaps.

You really need 2 people if you want to tune as you drive. That's what logging is all about, drive & log -----> stop & review & tune ------> drive & log etc. I do that until I am happy I have covered most conditions.

I pick up all the inputs at the ECU plug, once you are familiar with the pin outs it only takes a few minutes to log everything that you need. I don't splice into the standard wiring, takes too long and is messy. A few years ago (for the race car diadnostics) I made up a short (around 1 metre) wiring harness with 10 cables in it, each is a different colour. Every cable has a piece of thin wire soldered to the end, insulated with shrink wrap except for the last 3 or 4 mm. The wire is small/stiff enough to push in through the back of the ECU plug, into whatever pin I need. There is not large current draw involved here, it's only a signal for logging, so the connection doesn't have to be permanent.

I am going to make up a similar harness (with less wires though) for the A/F meter logging inputs, I will post up some pictures when it is done.

:D cheers :D

where do i find more info about the DIY detonation detector? seeing as i don't have knock sensors i reckon its pretty important i have something...

The elcheapo and DIY versions are in the AutoSpeed articles written by JE;

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0353/article.html

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1353/article.html

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2717/article.html

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

I was searching the net last night and came across these kits. I emailed oosh and he gave me this link. I am yet to build my epprom burner i have at home from dicksmiths $100. I already have the consult interface and one of these would be the perfect addition to writing my own chips. Which kit would you recommend for me, I'm after something pre build so I can get on the go straight away. Is the most expensive kit worth it if I will be using it a lot or would the one you guys are using be suitable. What are the benifits of the more expensive setup?

Its good to see you guys doing your own thing. You all beat me to it!

Looking thru the stats on these, they have an simulated Narrow band outpur (NBsim), is anyone using this?

i.e. Completely replacing the stock O2 sensor with the new WB one, then plumbing the NBsim output in to your ECU, or are you just mounting both?

I was searching the net last night and came across these kits. I emailed oosh and he gave me this link. I am yet to build my epprom burner i have at home from dicksmiths $100.  I already have the consult interface and one of these would be the perfect addition to writing my own chips. Which kit would you recommend for me, I'm after something pre build so I can get on the go straight away. Is the most expensive kit worth it if I will be using it a lot or would the one you guys are using be suitable. What are the benifits of the more expensive setup?

Its good to see you guys doing your own thing. You all beat me to it!

Some have onboard logging, others require a laptop connected to log...

Looking thru the stats on these, they have an simulated Narrow band outpur (NBsim), is anyone using this?

i.e. Completely replacing the stock O2 sensor with the new WB one, then plumbing the NBsim output in to your ECU, or are you just mounting both?

This is what i would hope to do, however no one else has mentioned using it in this position as yet, but i can't see a problem with it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, if the headlights' cutoff behaviour (angles, heights, etc) are not as per 6.2.6.1.1 without automatic levelling, then you have to have to have automatic** levelling. Also, if the headlight does not have the required markings, then neither automatic nor manual adjusters are going to be acceptable. That's because the base headlight itself does not meet the minimum requirement (which is the marking). ** with the option of manual levelling, if the headlight otherwise meets the same requirements as for the automatic case AND can be set to the "base" alignment at the headlight itself. So that's an additional requirement for the manual case. So, provided that the marking is on the headlight and there is a local manual adjustment back to "base" on the headlight, then yes, you could argue that they are code compliant. But if you are missing any single one of these things, then they are not. And unlike certain other standards that I work with, there does not seem to be scope to prepare a "fitness for purpose" report. Well, I guess there actually is. You might engage an automotive engineer to write a report stating that the lights meet the performance requirements of the standard even if they are missing, for example, the markings.  
    • Vertical orientation   6.2.6.1.1. The initial downward inclination of the cut off of the dipped-beam to be set in the unladen vehicle state with one person in the driver's seat shall be specified within an accuracy of 0.1 per cent by the manufacturer and indicated in a clearly legible and indelible manner on each vehicle close to either headlamp or the manufacturer's plate by the symbol shown in Annex 7.   The value of this indicated downward inclination shall be defined in accordance with paragraph 6.2.6.1.2.   6.2.6.1.2. Depending on the mounting height in metres (h) of the lower edge of the apparent surface in the direction of the reference axis of the dipped beam headlamp, measured on the unladen vehicles, the vertical inclination of the cut off of the dipped- beam shall, under all the static conditions of Annex 5, remain between the following limits and the initial aiming shall have the following values:   h < 0.8   Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent   0.8 < h < 1.0   Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent   Or, at the discretion of the manufacturer,   Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent   The application for the vehicle type approval shall, in this case, contain information as to which of the two alternatives is to be used.   h > 1.0   Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent   The above limits and the initial aiming values are summarized in the diagram below.   For category N3G (off-road) vehicles where the headlamps exceed a height of 1,200 mm, the limits for the vertical inclination of the cut-off shall be between: -1.5 per cent and -3.5 per cent.   The initial aim shall be set between: -2 per cent and -2.5 per cent.
×
×
  • Create New...