Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering, someone wants to buy the shell of my car with the driveline, but without wheels and suspension.

How do you get that towed?

I'm assuming you'd have to keep it on some sort of stand?

And you'd need a special company to do the towing?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91419-how-do-you-towdeliver-a-shell/
Share on other sites

  Coupe-This said:
hey dark, my sister works at simons national carriers, lemme know if u need anything, i can hook ya up wit it cheaper :(

holy shit, this is perfect

thanks

Hey dark,

Towing body shells is no issue for me, as long as you and the buyer don't mind the underbody of the car getting scratched from dragging onto the truck and sliding it off at the other end. Mind you it doesn't actually do any structural harm to the underbody...

Call me when you ready to discuss this further 0419877437..

Cheers

  JAGR33 said:
Hey dark,

Towing body shells is no issue for me, as long as you and the buyer don't mind the underbody of the car getting scratched from dragging onto the truck and sliding it off at the other end. Mind you it doesn't actually do any structural harm to the underbody...

Call me when you ready to discuss this further 0419877437..

Cheers

Shouldn't be an issue.

I'll give you a call tomorrow morning.

Thanks Jack.

  Duncan said:
Hey JAGR33 do you have a way to move em without scratching? dolly wheels or something?  Its a problem I seem to have too often, trying to move a car without wheels :(

Maybe tie the car to some packing crates (the ones for use with forklifts)..?

i might give that a go

  Duncan said:
Hey JAGR33 do you have a way to move em without scratching? dolly wheels or something?  Its a problem I seem to have too often, trying to move a car without wheels :angry:

Duncan, your right, the proper way to drag it onto the truck is to use what they call 'ambulance wheels', but only panel shops have usually got them... I don't have them coz they are big and bulky which means I can't store them anywhere on the track and the main reason being I hardly ever need them...

dark, palletts usually work but sometimes get caught on the end of the tray when dragging the car up, resulting in the car sliding onto the tray and the crate staying on the ground. Once you get it over the little lip on the tray it's all good, although getting it off at the other end can be a problem aswell....

The way id go about it

* Buy (steal) a 2 tonne pallet (i buy ~30 at a time for ~$12 each 2nd hand refurbished)

* Put car on jackstands and strip as needed

* Put pallet under the car and lower it on

* Get a flatbed with a forky (the same as what bricks are delivered on) to come and fork the car onto the flatbed

* Deliver as needed

Or.. the cheap ass method...drag it on as suggested above...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...