Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi has anyone got or know of a wiring daigram for a r30 because i have put a l20,injected 6 into my race car a i dont want to use the whole loom,i want to find out what wires need to be hooked up in the engine loom to make it run,so far i have got fuel but no spark any help would be great,thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91577-r30-wiring/
Share on other sites

I'm pretty certain that the looms are basically the same between the L20 and L24. The L20 needs a O2 sensor wire, which uses the (vacant on the L24) pin 13.

PM me a fax number, I can send you the EFI wiring diagram for the L24E. And when I find it, the cross-reference list I created.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91577-r30-wiring/#findComment-1655768
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I know this is a bit old, but I just bought an 1981 280ZX Turbo manual on ebay USA to get a lot of this info we don't have on the L20ET engine compartment, so when it arrives I can post any info you might want from it.

Blind Elk, I would be interested in your cross reference sheet if you could send it to me.

Just need to be notified so I can connect my fax machine to a telephone line.

Cheers All.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91577-r30-wiring/#findComment-1714666
Share on other sites

I sitll have full access to a wiring diagram for a L24e etc...plus i have a l20et in my car if u need any help. Just takes photos of what u need help with.

George L24E is old hat. I probably have more R30 L24E wiring diagrams than you have, including the supplement that came out for the series 2 & 3 of 84/85.

Most of the questions raised are about L20ET wiring and I am buildsing an 2949cc version of the L series engine, as has been fairly well documented in these pages, hence why I invested in the 280ZX Turbo manual, as I am only guessing, but think the wiring would almost be identical to that of the L20ET in our HR30 Skylines.

And I also have the L20ET enginge that was in my PNV and gross amounts of pics before it came out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91577-r30-wiring/#findComment-1719515
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...