Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just got the GTR back from its 100,000km service. All went well except a few things need doing. I had so called K&N pod filters already on the car but the guys who serviced the car said they were not, but infact a K&N copy that cannot be cleaned or something. Anyways, what kind of pod filter should I fit to the GTR? Is it worth spending the extra money on a Japanese brand like HKS or apexi?

I went for a ride in a mates car and he has a HKS pod, and when changing gears it flutters. I WANT THIS SOUND. hehe :rolleyes:

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9173-which-pod-air-filter/
Share on other sites

Boosted_RB26,

Most of the filters that come with the foam type arrangement are shit, the particles end up working there way through the foam and hitting the turbo, this leaves the turbine with pits in it, which can lead to failure.

I have a Blitz SUS filter, they are excellent for airflow but they allow small dust particles in, so in dusty environments are not very good.

The best and cheapest option is to get a redine filter for $25, they give good filtration with no noticable power loss.

See'ya:burnout:

If you are into "name brands" then I read the Apexi power intake has a good filtration and good air flow combination compared to the other brands e.g. HKS, Blitz, K&N. Also, it is a dry type, meaning you don't need to re-oil it after cleaning (Autospeed).

Otherwise, just go for a cheap Hurricane air filter from Works. Does the job and for ard the same price as the redline filter you won't lose any sleep over it.

400HP, Damn that makes me a rice boy too. Always new that they filtered for shit, but though that they would make better HP, waste of $400, but it looks cool.

If your not after looks then go for the K&N or Hurricane filters, they are cheap provide good power and filter well.

See'ya:burnout:

ok thanks for your input people.

dumb question but are some filters louder than others? the reason i ask is that I went for a ride in an R31 with an RB20det the other day and I think it had a HKS filter. Anyway...it was much much louder than the ones I have now.

Im pretty sure its "works autos" old 31.

BoostedRB26,

In general the filters that don't filter as well will sound louder, so that is not a good thing to go for, mine is hell loud but will only filter things the size of a small child. Go for the hurricane's from Works, they do the job well, plus you'll save heaps of money for something else.

See'ya:burnout:

Boosted rb26 i dont think it is the filters that are lounder rather the setup on the car. When i had a pod filter on my car with the stock turbo setup the pod was very loud with all the woosh noises when you back off etc, now with the new big turbo and a different setup there is no noticable annoying noise coming from the filters, i think it is an rb20 thing with loud filters.

Actually I do think the noise is to do with the filter and maybe the engine. A friend with an RB20DET + HKS pod is VERY loud. Then again Franks' car with RB25DET NEO + Apexi is very loud too.

In general all aftermarket filters are loud. When looking at the link I sent before the best for performance and filtration were the K&N and the Apexi.

I have a Trust Airnx filter, and it is one of the foam type filters. It does a good job of keeping out pebbles and small stones, but i'm convinced that it lets anything smaller than that through. It is damn loud, wooshing and fuffling like a mad dog.

I had a K&N on my old car, and it was a much more pleasant sound - deep and tough sounding intake and probably filtered alot better... thinking of changing back to a K&N,

I read somewhere on the UK GTR forum that that test doesn't prove much as there are other variables that weren't taken into consideration. I'll try to find it.

Here it is

Link

It is a long thread, but the Scott guy seems to know.

Silver-Arrowz,

I agree that most tests don't prove much in terms of power, but I do agree that most of the expensive Japanese brands tend to be pretty poor at small particle filtration. I like the look of my Blitz SUS, but if your after value for money then some of the cheap brands will filter much better and not affect power for about $25.

So if your a rice-boy like me, then go the Jap brand, if your not and only concerned about power then go for the cheap pod.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by 2fardown

Just get a K&N panel filter for your factory air box.  You won't be sucking in hot engine bay air and they filter a lot better.  Plus you can't get defected for it.

Absolutely.

For the 32R , the gains in a pod filter over a good K+N panel filter are zero unless you pushing big HP and there is some sort of cold air box .

Only thing pod filter gives is the blowoffs are heard which may or may not be a good thing.

Sounded good on mine for about... ohh... 5 minutes then started getting annoying.

Cheers

Ken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...