Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys Im new to the boards and this is my first post! Woot!

Im importing an R33 to hopefully get into the country late January.. I've had a look and had a chat to a few different business but was wondering what kind of importing experiences everyone else has had ?

Experiences, stories, suggestions, advice, business names and feedback would be greatly appreciated! :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91856-importing-companies/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you cannot go past paul at autoworx in wangara

got my car through him, highly recommend him... so have many ppl i know including friends

he is the only import place in perth at least that i have not heard dodgy stories about. seriously dont go anywhere else

he also has quality guarantees on his vehicles, so if ur not happy with the condition he will refund your money

yeah i agree with mirkz, theres heaps for sale here and at least u can see the condition of the car and drive it before u buy it. private sale prices here are pretty good (if not cheaper than importing) if u look around and are patient. i was originally going to import one in myself but ended up finding one here. autoworx seems pretty good though, thats where my car came from originally. the previous owner bought my car from there for over $20k, i bought it less than a year later for $16K. the guy at autoworx seems pretty honest, if i was going to import a vehicle id probly go through him. my last bit of advice is to look at plenty of cars before you buy, theres quite a few sh*tboxes around...

I'm currentlyimporting my r34 with Paul at autoworx (www.autoworx.com.au) he garauntees the car will be compliancable when it gets here.

Although if it has unforseen mechanical problems you will need to pay for.

So far he's been great to deal with, put up with me being picky on what I bought too.

Car should be delivered to him today for compliancing so I can give more info in 2 weeks when I have the car.

I think the boat that had my car on it also had several r33s for Paul to sell in his lot, maybe he has what you're looking for already.

I purchased a R33 GTS-t from auctions through Paul, had him comply it ready for licensing.... Its been on the road for a couple of months now without a single problem.

He is the best person for the job when it comes to R33s, and believe me, the price you will pay for the car on the road will be ALOT cheaper than buying a stock one from here.

I'd say shop around as most of these guys dont actually go to Japan and rely mostly on the same Japanese agents. Most of these agents buy under a Grading system which is still not 100% fool-proof.

Either way, you have Phil, Danny Fishcer, Pau;l and recently Jap Parts for the R33 plates.

G'day man, i know it's not the advice your after, but i would highly reccomend you have a look locally, there are heaps of cars for sale, and the market has taken a real dive recently, I got my car, a 1995 gts-t, really cheap, good cond, with mods. . .

it's my second import, the first one was from a dealer, fresh from Japan, and i know what you mean about wanting a fresh, stock one, but i don't think i'll buy from a dealer again. better value for money privately. . .

it's your choice dude

Let me give u a rough impression. 120k r33 GTS-t. Panel scratches (keyed), average condition, with minor mods, exhaust , bov and pod filter. Went for 12K. When they state that the car imported is at 60k or 80k. Do you believe it? for a 10 yr old car to do 6k/yr or 8k/yr. Is it really possible? LoL. Think about it, it's a SKYLINE, not a ferarri or Porsche GT2/3 or a lambo or something. It's a skyline. I say the best bet is to buy one locally. But as they mentioned, loadsa shit boxes around. Good luck on that one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...