Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I think a mildly tuned nat-atmo 13B would be good in the old AE86 chassis, and probably a good alternative to a 4AGE 20 valve engine. The light weight body would compensate somewhat for the lack of torque, and the light weight engine would give excellent chassis balance. An RX-8 Renesis engine would be ideal :mellow: but expensive :rolleyes:. A big power 13BT or 20BT would overwhelm the 1980's chassis I reckon. Although some people like their cars that way :huh:. Fixing up the chassis to cope with a 20B would go beyond a "cheap" stealth car.

But I love the 20B, so I will jump on the band wagon and say GO THE 20B!!!

I think putting any rotor in really goes beyond a cheap car. Especially if it is for daily use, rotors are not very reliable. Also a rotor isn't exactly stealthy, especially when worked.

r31 with any turbo rb engine would be my choice.

Edited by shyster
I think putting any rotor in really goes beyond a cheap car. Especially if it is for daily use, rotors are not very reliable. Also a rotor isn't exactly stealthy, especially when worked.

ahhaha! i love comments about rotor engines.

1. Rotor are reliable, they are like any engine, if u take care of it, it will last if you dont say bye bye

2.how is a rotor not stealthy? when it will be in an ae86 :huh:

3. the cost of buying and shitty ae86 and putting a rotor in it, wont cost you much more than dropping an rb20 or 25 into an r31.

:rolleyes:

Yes well everything I have ever read about rotors says they are great motors although unreliable. This has been proven by friends of mine who have owned them, taken great care with them, and they still have regular problems.

Also would've thought myself that putting a rotor in would be cheap. You would think it would be a breeze considering how small they are. But, once again everything I've heard says otherwise. Although I remember reading somewhere of a conversion into an ae86. I'll try and find the article.

I have also noticed rotors tend to make a lot of noise. Even an NA with a mild port and exhaust is fairly loud when compared to an NA rb with exhaust. Once again base on expeirnce of friends rotors. Unfortunately I have never owned a rotor myself, as I have been put off by my friends experiences.

Although in all fairness one of my mates had a bridgeport 13b, which as you would imagine was as loud as hell and as such got heaps of attention from police. So perhaps my opinion on rotors is a little biased against them.

Debadged VR-4

or an old SL430 (merc).... all it would need is induction, and you could light it up in 3rd (OK, maybe not)

I guess the best sleeper is the 'shopping trolley'. Since when does a crappy 86 magna run 12s?

my jzx90 gets mistaken for a camry many a time.. the 1jz manual ensures that it doesnt go like one though!

used to have a datto ute 5 years ago with a stock fj20det, i had it waaaay before all the boys were doing them..

a stocky cefiro gets no looks from the general public also, and are awesome as we all know!

or a GTR with holden badges????

And one of those big “HOLDEN” stickers that covers the top 15% of the front windscreen!!!

Rotors do not = stealth nor cheep

Just make sure what ever car is bough has 4 things:

Bowling hat on back parcel shelf,

Sheep skin front seat covers and

Pea shooter exhaust

No badges

Optional extras would include:

Black sun visor /blinds on back windows,

Faded paint,

Factory hubcaps,

Christen “fish” sticker,

My sister's Honda City Turbo (circa 1986) had a bowling hat on the rear parcel shelf. Turbo or not, anybody still looks silly driving one of these.

I always wanted to shoe-horn an SR20DET into a mid 1980s Mercedes 180E but then I realised I was lazy.

I think a great stealth car would be a lancer coupe with neons, spoilers, body kit, rediculous spoilers, oversized rims etc. I always see these and laugh because they are slow as hell, and I'm sure many other skyline owners have had similar experience. Drop a 400hp Evo engine in there. People will see you coming and think you are a try-hard ricer, and that your car is shit and slow. Then you smoke them and they cry :D.

Although making a Lancer coupe fast would cost a small fortune and therefore not qualify as a "cheap" stealth car. ;) Plus just because every motoring enthusiast thinks your car is slow, it won't stop the police attention. Maybe that wasnt a good idea afterall!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...