Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i replaced mine at about 80k, when it was all still stock

was coming back from nimbin to the tweed (awesome drive by the way)

could smell clutch burning most of the trip

got back to brisso and it started slipping in 3rd and 4th going up hills

replaced with exedy heavy duty clutch for 500 bux or so and havent had a drama since

YES,

REVING-BUT NOT GOING ANYWHERE WOULD BE A GOOD SIGN.

SMELL-IS ANOTHER THAT YOU ARE BURNING THE CLUTCH.

My stock clutch seemed to be on it's way out showing these kind of symptoms.Then i added more 25rwkw more power took it to the drags,it couldnt handle the power and just slipped off the line.then in second so i gave up going for third.

At the moment the 5 puck ceramic HD clutch is great,though,i havent driven it more than 500klms in a year.

was driving my car one night and just put my foot down to over take someone and it started slipping. could smell some nice clutch smoke. so thats how mine went. just couldnt handle it any more.

when we replaced it we had a look at it and it was well and truely screwed (lived a pretty hard life)

it was replaced with an exedy etra heavy duty twin plate clutch and has been sweet ever since. :):)

heheh well i only recently got the car.. NO mods except catback.. n the stock clutch slips in 4th n 5th..

But i have bought a heavy duty excedy clutch to go in there..

Seems like everyone is replacin stock clutch with excedy clutch.. hehe guess i did the right move n bought it for the best price ever (320-from C & B)

Edit: 78000ks.. im sure the clutch started slippin in japan probably a thousand or so ks b4..

Edited by siddr20

I paid $680 for an excede sports tuff clutch fitted here in canberra, it started to die around a year or so ago, you could tell because its friction point kept getting less and less.

Then 2 weeks ago it just died one morning on the way to work, ive got it sitting here now.. and it had hot spots all over it and was down to the rivets and it falls to bits if i pick it up.

The clutch that came out was an excede but a shit one at that, so my cars had 2 clutchs as far as im aware within its 145,000km journey.

Dayne

my clutch died exactly a week after i put the exhaust and intercooler in :)

i was doing 100km/hr on the freeway and then suddenly the car quiet happily reved to 7000rpm in 5th gear :)

i got a exedy heavy duty clutch as a replacement for like $600-700 or so installed. I've had it for about 5 months.. Its starting to slip now so i'll probably get something abit better when finances permit :)

mine is an exedy twin plate extra heavy duty racing clutch and yes it hard to drive in traffic. defintely wouldnt recommend it on a daily driven car. was a very steep learning curve when i first got it.

cost me about $1800 including installed but its a bloody beast of a clutch. have had it in for about 5 months now and seems indestructable. :)

heheh well i only recently got the car.. NO mods except catback.. n the stock clutch slips in 4th n 5th..

But i have bought a heavy duty excedy clutch to go in there..

Seems like everyone is replacin stock clutch with excedy clutch.. hehe guess i did the right move n bought it for the best price ever (320-from C & B)

Edit: 78000ks.. im sure the clutch started slippin in japan probably a thousand or so ks b4..

i had a std broad minded personch in my car.... at 128,000 it was slipping... wouldnt grab when i did a quick shift... got a clutch from c& b and its awesome... can go mad launches... smells a bit tho but now its run in its all good......

had my car since 110,000km and dunno wat was the situation with the clutch...

but maybe it lasted a while because he had it since 70,000km and no recipts of a clutch being done....so maybe it was done in japan as there is writing on the origional one an shit...

My car had done almost 120,000km (stock) when I noticed the clutch wasn't grabbing too well. It wouldn't slip in 4th or 5th but hard changes wouldn't grab.

I then bumped it up to 240rwkw. Subsequently, the day I picked it up not only was the clutch unable to hold even in 3rd, but it was also raining so I had a shithouse drive home in my newly modified toy.

Then to make things even worse, by the time I got back from the Gold Coast to Brisbane the clutch died completely (couldn't even move in first) 6km from home and I had to get it towed. It was a crap night, I'll tell ya that!

Spent $1300 on a heavy duty ceramic single plate. Was a bit rough at first but now it's worn in and I'm used to it it works perfectly. No probs. Grabs very hard as well. Chirping into 3rd is no problem at all. Been going solid for a few months now.

Next time I'll probably go heavy duty organic though considering I don't race the car. Ceramic = overkill for a pure daily driver.

got mine with around 88000 kms from japan,

i put a high-flow cat and dump pipe on at 105000 and then it started to slip.it slipps in evey gear except first,when i put my foot down hard.smells bad.

its got a really heavy pedal,which i would love to know why...im sure a heavy duty clutch can have a light pedal? anyone know?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...