Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i replaced mine at about 80k, when it was all still stock

was coming back from nimbin to the tweed (awesome drive by the way)

could smell clutch burning most of the trip

got back to brisso and it started slipping in 3rd and 4th going up hills

replaced with exedy heavy duty clutch for 500 bux or so and havent had a drama since

YES,

REVING-BUT NOT GOING ANYWHERE WOULD BE A GOOD SIGN.

SMELL-IS ANOTHER THAT YOU ARE BURNING THE CLUTCH.

My stock clutch seemed to be on it's way out showing these kind of symptoms.Then i added more 25rwkw more power took it to the drags,it couldnt handle the power and just slipped off the line.then in second so i gave up going for third.

At the moment the 5 puck ceramic HD clutch is great,though,i havent driven it more than 500klms in a year.

was driving my car one night and just put my foot down to over take someone and it started slipping. could smell some nice clutch smoke. so thats how mine went. just couldnt handle it any more.

when we replaced it we had a look at it and it was well and truely screwed (lived a pretty hard life)

it was replaced with an exedy etra heavy duty twin plate clutch and has been sweet ever since. :):)

heheh well i only recently got the car.. NO mods except catback.. n the stock clutch slips in 4th n 5th..

But i have bought a heavy duty excedy clutch to go in there..

Seems like everyone is replacin stock clutch with excedy clutch.. hehe guess i did the right move n bought it for the best price ever (320-from C & B)

Edit: 78000ks.. im sure the clutch started slippin in japan probably a thousand or so ks b4..

Edited by siddr20

I paid $680 for an excede sports tuff clutch fitted here in canberra, it started to die around a year or so ago, you could tell because its friction point kept getting less and less.

Then 2 weeks ago it just died one morning on the way to work, ive got it sitting here now.. and it had hot spots all over it and was down to the rivets and it falls to bits if i pick it up.

The clutch that came out was an excede but a shit one at that, so my cars had 2 clutchs as far as im aware within its 145,000km journey.

Dayne

my clutch died exactly a week after i put the exhaust and intercooler in :)

i was doing 100km/hr on the freeway and then suddenly the car quiet happily reved to 7000rpm in 5th gear :)

i got a exedy heavy duty clutch as a replacement for like $600-700 or so installed. I've had it for about 5 months.. Its starting to slip now so i'll probably get something abit better when finances permit :)

mine is an exedy twin plate extra heavy duty racing clutch and yes it hard to drive in traffic. defintely wouldnt recommend it on a daily driven car. was a very steep learning curve when i first got it.

cost me about $1800 including installed but its a bloody beast of a clutch. have had it in for about 5 months now and seems indestructable. :)

heheh well i only recently got the car.. NO mods except catback.. n the stock clutch slips in 4th n 5th..

But i have bought a heavy duty excedy clutch to go in there..

Seems like everyone is replacin stock clutch with excedy clutch.. hehe guess i did the right move n bought it for the best price ever (320-from C & B)

Edit: 78000ks.. im sure the clutch started slippin in japan probably a thousand or so ks b4..

i had a std broad minded personch in my car.... at 128,000 it was slipping... wouldnt grab when i did a quick shift... got a clutch from c& b and its awesome... can go mad launches... smells a bit tho but now its run in its all good......

had my car since 110,000km and dunno wat was the situation with the clutch...

but maybe it lasted a while because he had it since 70,000km and no recipts of a clutch being done....so maybe it was done in japan as there is writing on the origional one an shit...

My car had done almost 120,000km (stock) when I noticed the clutch wasn't grabbing too well. It wouldn't slip in 4th or 5th but hard changes wouldn't grab.

I then bumped it up to 240rwkw. Subsequently, the day I picked it up not only was the clutch unable to hold even in 3rd, but it was also raining so I had a shithouse drive home in my newly modified toy.

Then to make things even worse, by the time I got back from the Gold Coast to Brisbane the clutch died completely (couldn't even move in first) 6km from home and I had to get it towed. It was a crap night, I'll tell ya that!

Spent $1300 on a heavy duty ceramic single plate. Was a bit rough at first but now it's worn in and I'm used to it it works perfectly. No probs. Grabs very hard as well. Chirping into 3rd is no problem at all. Been going solid for a few months now.

Next time I'll probably go heavy duty organic though considering I don't race the car. Ceramic = overkill for a pure daily driver.

got mine with around 88000 kms from japan,

i put a high-flow cat and dump pipe on at 105000 and then it started to slip.it slipps in evey gear except first,when i put my foot down hard.smells bad.

its got a really heavy pedal,which i would love to know why...im sure a heavy duty clutch can have a light pedal? anyone know?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...