Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cammos green r32 has a rb30 like bens in it

you will need a foward facing plenum or else you will have trouble shuttin ya bonnet tho

yeah as james said unless u want to dick around with after market bonnet u need the forward facing plenum the RB30 sits up a lot more then the 20's do

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1671907
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah as jaimes said unless u want to dick around with after market bonnet u need the forward facing plenum the RB30 sits up a lot more then the 20's do

about 40mm higher IIRC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1675116
Share on other sites

hahah awesome!!

absolute bargain too well done. At least you have a live axel rear end so you should be able to get some even traction/tyre wear. From the power figures its making the same as what mine was and trust me, your going to need bigger tyres

what gearbox is in it??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1676290
Share on other sites

So is it fast? :(

I would just get widened steelies, and some hubcaps on them, and some nice semi slicks and just not drive it in the wet :D

If your cluch is stuffed too, go see Jim Berry, he'll fix it.

And, please always leave at least 1 lane gap between your car and mine if you ever see me, I dont wish to die when you decide to spin 4th up the motorway :) thanks!

Awsome awesome sleeper tho, try keep it quiet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1676330
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

That funny shroud isnt what they call a twin scroll compressor housing??

block is 38mm higher then std rb blocks. You slot out engine mount bolts holes and let it drop down to clear bonnet if u dont have a forward facing plenum eg greddy/gtr plenum. Or go drift spec and raise the bonnet at the rear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1786635
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...