Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people's. I have been driving my skyline around for only 3 days now since i got it and the ride is REALLY REALLY rough. Basically i can feel even the smallest bumb in the road.

I have Tein HA suspension and have done a bit of research. Apparently u can adjust the damper so that the ride is much softer. I will not be taking it to the track at all, well for at least a year, so there is no need to have the ride so hard.

Does anybody know how i can adjust it and if so, how much i should adjust so i can have reasonable comfort but still have the rigidity

Thanks, any help woul be greatly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92201-tein-ha-adjustable-suspension/
Share on other sites

damper adjustment is done at top of the strut. *if* you have damper adjustment.

on top of the centre bolt, there may be a dial, you turn this to adjust damper. If it's missing the thing, you will need an allen key to adjust it.

Though, not all the tien coilovers come with damper adjustment, so you may not have it at all!

Damper adjustment will make a small difference in comfort, but probably won't fix your problem.

Sydney kid has a group buy on the bilstien/whitline gear, may be a better idea going for softer suspension if you're never gonna take it to the track.

Anyway, try the damper adjustment first, and see if that helps.

Damn, i really hope it works, anybody wanna swap suspension?

There are quite a few people who have had no problem selling there Japanese brand suspension and taking advantage of the Group buy pricing on the Whiteline/ Bilstein kits. Lots of guys like the really firm ride, so there are buyers out there who will take them off your hands.

;) cheers :)

Ive spoken to a few people, and most say that i should keep the suspension and put up with the bumps. My car has got a nismo front body-kit which is pretty low and if i get new suspension it might bottom out when i go over speed humps. I'll post some picks up 2moro so u guys can see and give me your opinions

Cheers

Edited by Taso84

I had HA Tein's (with damper adjustment too) on my R32 that I just picked up recently. With mine, my mechanic informed that the spring platform had been wound right up - so high in fact that it was placing pre-load on the springs ie compressing them significantly at rest. (my car was riding way high ie like factory height). I doubt you have this issue - but may be worth checking as it was causing my car to ride a little harsher than now (that it is lowered 1").

if you want to be able to adjust height properly. you need body adjustable coilovers.

The spring platform adjustment, is for adjusting pre-load, which you can use to change the height, but it's not the proper way to do it. as it changes the preload on the spring.

http://bag11pr000.auc.bbt.yahoo.co.jp/user...90_damper_1.jpg

http://bag11pr000.auc.bbt.yahoo.co.jp/user...45_damper_2.jpg

^ the coilovers in the pics have Body adjustment and preload adjustment (notice collar on bottom aswell as under spring, this adjusts body using c-spanner)

That's the proper way to adjust height without changing spring preload. but, not many coilovers have it.

I had HA Tein's (with damper adjustment too) on my R32 that I just picked up recently.  With mine, my mechanic informed that the spring platform had been wound right up - so high in fact that it was placing pre-load on the springs ie compressing them significantly at rest. (my car was riding way high ie like factory height).  I doubt you have this issue - but may be worth checking as it was causing my car to ride a little harsher than now (that it is lowered 1").

Yea, i think my car is at the factory height too, coz it had to be complianced. U think if a lower it an inch it will be better? I dont really want to do it myself coz i dont want to f*ck anything up. Whate a good place to take it so they can look at it and give me good advice. Apparently BOB Jane on cnr Dandinong/Warrigal roads is pretty good.

One other problem is that its gota bodykit on it so if a lower it, it might bottom out, but yea captainah, what u said sounds a lot like whats happening to my car. Can pre-load on the springs wear out the shocks or anying?

if you want to be able to adjust height properly.  you need body adjustable coilovers.

The spring platform adjustment, is for adjusting pre-load,  which you can use to change the height,  but it's not the proper way to do it. as it changes the preload on the spring.

http://bag11pr000.auc.bbt.yahoo.co.jp/user...90_damper_1.jpg

http://bag11pr000.auc.bbt.yahoo.co.jp/user...45_damper_2.jpg

^ the coilovers in the pics have  Body adjustment and preload adjustment  (notice collar on bottom aswell as under spring,  this adjusts body using c-spanner)

That's the proper way to adjust height without changing spring preload.  but,  not many coilovers have it.

Mine definately have the collar under the spring, ill have to remove the rim to check that there is that collar at the bottom too.

Just in case your not aware TASO84, changing the height with preload just compresses the spring to make the car lower. So if you do that you will find the ride to be even more firm and that the spring will compress and rebound faster, which is probabaly not what you want.

Just thought i'd put it in simpler terms for you.

changing the height with preload just compresses the spring to make the car lower. So if you do that you will find the ride to be even more firm and that the spring will compress and rebound faster
The spring platform adjustment, is for adjusting pre-load,  which you can use to change the height,  but it's not the proper way to do it. as it changes the preload on the spring.
That's the proper way to adjust height without changing spring preload. but, not many coilovers have it.

Not picking on the guys who posted this, that's why I have deleted their names. They are simply repeating stuff they have been told. It is absolute and complete RUBBISH, it's BS spread by one importer to make their inferior stuff somehow seem better than it really is.

Using a 200 lbs per inch spring as an example. It takes 200 lbs to compress it one inch. It doesn't matter if that's the first inch or the tenth inch. It still takes 200 lbs to compress the spring one inch. So the spring rate doesn't go up because of preload. That is simpy a load of CRAP.

Take a look at any race car and you will find lower spring seat adjusters used to adjust the height. Does anyone really think that we would use that system if it changed the spring rate?

All the preload does is change the height of the car, it DOES NOT CHANGE THE SPRING RATE. A 200lbs per inch spring is always a 200 lbs per inch spring. If you want to change the spring rate, buy different springs.

:) cheers :)

PS; sorry if this seems a little harsh, but I am getting very tired of the BS from this importer.

Edited by Sydneykid

hmmmm..... marketing ploys maybe.. I just go by what i've been told. so sorry if it's inaccurate -- ill have to speak to guy who told me that in the first place.

fair comment though. Is there any difference at all between the two methods?

There are quite a few major brands being released with both methods of adjustment these days. is this just so you can go lower? what's the story there...

sorry if i touched a nerve there, though, what i said was what i've heard from a few people, so may be some bad info going around there.

So if i get the tool and adjust the springs down are u saying it wont do anying to make the ride less harsh?

No lowering the bottom spring seat will just make the car lower. That may in fact make it contact the bumps stops more often due to the less travel. So it may actually make the ride more harsh.

Raising the bottom spring seat will just make the car higher. That would make it contact the bump stops less often and most likely will in fact make it less harsh. But only if bump top contact was a cause of the harshness in the first place.

Neither will change the spring rate, if you want to change the spring rate buying different springs is your only solution.

:angry: cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...