Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys if you wanted a cheaper, say an R34 GTT coupe for around 25-30 K would it be better to import it via j spec or whichever or buy R34s that have already been brought over? Im keen on an auto R34 coupe GTT and saw on j spec site them go for as low as 22 grand (add another grand or so for hidden costs like new tyres and rego) with only 60 K on the clock and a good rating 4.

Currently I see GTT go for 28-35 K in Australia with relatively high Ks...

Comments?

Edited by Sir-D
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92274-importing-or-buy-local/
Share on other sites

depends if you want it tomorrow or in a few months?

this has been answered many times.. there are advantages to both in that yes imports are generally cheaper... but a car that has allready been imported can be test driven by your self

in the long run there are advantages and dissadvantages to both.. and things can go wrong equally in both types of purchases, allthough more people regard importing as more fo a gamble, however if no one did it, there would be none for people to buy locally lol

its something you should sit on and yes i think its a good idea to seek other peoples opinions and personal stories to get a good all round perspective on what to do

personally i bought locally because it was convienient for me but not nessasarily cheaper, howver i would definatly consider importing in the future and have heard good things about j-spec

there are some members on the forum who work for j-spec i belive too

just remember ... dont allways do something because its cheaper.. i have a favorite quote of mine that goes like this

"cheap and reliable wont be fast, fast and cheap wont be reliable, and reliable and fast wont be cheap" ;)

-Ruffels

Edited by Ruffels

another grand or so should be about $2k

Alarm, hidden customs costs, transporting, decent tyres, stamp duty, fm expander for radio, xenon switchover, degassing of aircon and of course even more bloody tax for on road costs (paying tax on the same car 3 times really sucks)

another grand or so should be about $2k

Alarm, hidden customs costs, transporting, decent tyres, stamp duty, fm expander for radio, xenon switchover, degassing of aircon and of course even more bloody tax for on road costs (paying tax on the same car 3 times really sucks)

most of those things are already included in the compliance cost except for tyres and rego.

most of those things are already included in the compliance cost except for tyres and rego.

there are unknown costs that arise..new customs entry system being implemented atm causing huge delays for some ...storage costs not in original budget,also allow at least $350-500 for rwc ,bar touch up etc ..this is on a grade 4 car ..lesser the grade greater the amount to be spent here,try and remember your buying cars from auction not showroom... in japan as with the rest of the world ..no one sends perfect cars to the auction

Buy localy if you can , you can see the car and its already registered , there is always a risk that you may not be able to get it complied /registered due to rust or previous damage .

Dont forget it will cost you more than the aproximate price on their website as well , for instance if you have to replace brakes , thats extra and stock items are not cheap ( you must use stock pads and rotors ).

The $4k they estimate for compliance could cost you $5 , 6 or even more .

They dont allow enough for transport , the actual boat fee may only be $1000-1100 but when you start adding , customs , q/t , tow truck , steamclean and tow truck to the steamcleaning place , it will cost over $2 k .

Tyres , you will end up with some crap asian tyres that you will throw out and they have to be stock rims and stock size tyres .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...