Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I reckon it would make some good numbers with big'ish boost stuffed into it

One of these turbo's is on my short list, along with 2530,2535 etc so I want to get a idea what its like with a bit more boost! 20psi is about right I reckon, that way you get good value out of a turbo upgrade

If you could post a dyno that would be great!

Whats your boost level you have settled for Roy :P

Nice power levels too quincy :)

I have attached my last dyno sheet, I want to see how it compares to the 2510 running 1.5bar. I reckon this turbo would be great for drift

post-493-1130396621.jpg

Edited by Chris32

Well, i have to check, what i thought was 17/18psi on recent track days where i was upping the rev limiter, may actually only be 13/14psi.

I want to be running 17/18psi with ocasional hits of 21psi...suppose i need to get my boost gauge hooked back up. I hope it wsa only 14/15psi that i was running That would mean i ran the times at Sandown and at the drags with only 215rwkws & 14/15psi

I have attached my last dyno sheet, I want to see how it compares to the 2510 running 1.5bar. I reckon this turbo would be great for drift

When you said you picked up 40rwkws at 100km/h, are you coparing two dyno sheets both done in 3rd gear, or is that 4th gear witha sane rev limit?

i got my 32 tuned the other week, it pulled 175rwkw on 12psi and boost come on at around 4000rpm. my mods are:

tomei cams

high flowed non ball bearing turbo

gtr injectors

power fc

hks intercooler

3.5inch exhuast

splitfire coilpacks

bosch 040 fuel pump.

soon ill be swapping turboes and going a gt3071r

Keep the thread on track please. GT2860RS on RB20.

Quincy what A/R turbine housing did you choose, and comments on the actual delivery too please!!

No doubt this will be a subject of interest to Discopotato03 and others.

When you said you picked up 40rwkws at 100km/h, are you coparing two dyno sheets both done in 3rd gear, or is that 4th gear witha sane rev limit?

Same gear, in 4th. You can see how mine drops away power quick quickly after it makes max power. This dyno is done in 4th, you can see how I want more top end!

Very keen to see the results/specs of quincy's 2860 on the RB20 and how it compares to my dyno. Keen to look at other turbo options now

I am going to stick with 16psi for now - just been stuffing around with it all for the past 3 months so want to keep it safe, very safe for the track.

Asked tuner (Ben) if it has any legs left - his response, "somewhere between another 5-10%" So yes can't wait for 20 odd psi when I could handle the risk of it being off the road again.

Dont have a camera at the moment to post up graph, but will ASAP.

Troy - I compared to yours when I had the 3071 couple of months ago, it is very similar to yours in mid range, comes on a little earier, and of course runs out earier.

Cheers

Cam

Troy - I compared to yours when I had the 3071 couple of months ago, it is very similar to yours in mid range, comes on a little earier, and of course runs out earier.

Cheers

Cam

Good man Cam, that was going to be my homework asignment next time i was speaking to Ben. :)

So you are saying the 3071 came on earlier then my setup, but ran out earlier...or do you mean the 28RS :O

LOL..this is cool, another RB20 on the same dyno with the same good tuner. If there is a better setup out there then lets find it and all go and buy it :D

Wise move running that boost if its going to be used on the track.

Sounds like a good turbo so far, looking forward to comparing dyno sheets and seeing where the 2860 makes power in relation to mine.

Good results so far

3071 coming on earier, Ha ha.. Dog. And didn't run out of puff till 8500rpm. Not much good. So yep mean 28rs.

By the way exhaust housing has to be .64. .86 was laggy and yuk - even though it was advised to get .86 - definatly no good for rb20, must be .64.

Anyone wanting some great honest help should see Wayne at GT Auto in croydon - helped me with everything and he was great.

Good man Cam, that was going to be my homework asignment next time i was speaking to Ben.  :)

So you are saying the 3071 came on earlier then my setup, but ran out earlier...or do you mean the 28RS  :)

LOL..this is cool, another RB20 on the same dyno with the same good tuner. If there is a better setup out there then lets find it and all go and buy it :)

Yes interesting about the RB20 not having enough exhaust gas energy to cope with a .86 turbine housing . I guess the bottom line is that its not possible to have the broad flat torque line with 330 cc cylinders . SK did once say in an RB20 vs SR20 "debate" that the RB's advantage was that it could rev and so make the numbers .

With the GT28RS .64 ARR hitting full boost at 3700 rpm it would be interesting to see what raised compression ratios could do before detonation became an issue .

Another thing worth looking into is the GTS-R exhaust manifold , I'm not sure if the std 20/25 exhaust manifold is the same but if it is there could be some small gains in getting the gas speed right here . I think Joels 30DET Pdf shows some pics of RB20 ports but can't remember if the exhaust side are smaller than 25DET .

Does anyone know if the factory did anything significant with the last of the RB20DET's ie R34 if there was such a thing ? If there is an RB20 Neo there's a fair chance Nissan was eager to get the most out of 2L so better manifolds or whatever may be available .

Cheers A .

The Rb20/25 exh. ports are the same size, only differece between the two is the rb20 valves are 'slightly' smaller. Nothing like the size difference between the inlet valves, the 20's inlet valves look like baby's compared to the rb25's.

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...