Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok im thinking of getting a new bike soon and reading RAPID motorcylce mag, do any of you guy's buy it ???? and in the recent issue they have KRUSTY on his CBR1000RR ran a [email protected] and only to be beaten by the GREEDY judd who weighed 20 kg less then krusty with a [email protected] so realy krusty could of ran a nine.

ive also seen a bloke winge to a diffrent bike mag when they tested the GSXR1000 K5 and ran a 10.48 and he said this time was not doing the bike justice and said he drag races a GSXR and should run a hi 9!!!!!! he was fumeing that this test ran this time and blamed the riders 60ft time which was a speed of 0-100m in just over 3 sec (should be under 3 sec he said) so i was just wondering if any of you guy's know/have a bike with ET times?????? also has anybody rode a SP1 VTR1000 FIRESTORM and what are they like compared to a GSXR1000,CBR1000RR,YAMMY R1...in speed reliability and performance . even the big busa which i dont like the shape of.

ps;;;or any other opinions on your fav ride and why

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92867-factory-bikes-running-10-ets/
Share on other sites

ha, i saw that guys reply in a copy of AMCN a while back, about how the gixxer thou shoulda cracked a 9 or some shit. but anyway.

with a bit of practice you should, and i use that term loosely, should be able to crack a 10 sec 1/4 with any of the newish 1000's, prolly even a new gix750

re comparing the bikes you mentioned depends on your riding style

buy a v-twin if u want power wheelies/sweet noise/heavy ass ride

get an inline 4 cause they are the total package

get out there and test the bikes you have a hard on for and narrow it down from there

Unless you already have a bike license its 250cc or less for you.

Personally I think the big bikes are suicide machines for anyone without serious experience on a bike and wouldn't go anywhere near one on the road or track out of fear they would just explode due to the insanity of the power to weight.

Unless you already have a bike license its 250cc or less for you.

Personally I think the big bikes are suicide machines for anyone without serious experience on a bike and wouldn't go anywhere near one on the road or track out of fear they would just explode due to the insanity of the power to weight.

WELL atleast if you f#$% up on a bike only you are the one to die !!!!not like these cars of mass destruction that dont give a shit about bikes or the public let alone watch out for these tinny objects that they cant see (this is not just fast cars) oh yeah if i was after a 250 i dont think i would be asking wich of these 10 sec monster's do you reckon is a better package .. sorry but i dont want to hear (yeah get this bike ive been on the back and they handle well becasue how th f do you know how it handles if your not riding it <_<

allways was going the gixer1000 has my bike is a GSXR750 which has ran a high ten own my own timer. i have taken a few fireblades, R1 and ZX10R for a test to compair with the gixer but just want your opinions!!!( only if you ride and have one of these brands and are happy with it) cause every bike and bloke has a diffrent story on what they pefer im not asking if you think bikes are death traps or not cause fast cars are worse (dont get me started on that one that is another topic)........ ty ps oh yeah ive never been on the SP1 VTR1000 are they good???? i love the sound of the vtr but how are they for reliability

All these bikes are good for reliability, they would not be the most elite production bikes in the world otherwise. In the end its your decision. Test ride them all and choose what you like.

Remember its not just about times down the 1/4, and you will never ride these bikes to their full potential around a track. If u are going to be riding several times a week and anything over 1 hr at a time you will want something that u sit comfortably on. plus if are going to throw someone on the back think about their ride too.

I had a blade and have riden the GSXR, R1 and the ninja. I definately prefered the Honda. Even my mates that had the other bikes believed the blade was a better all round package.

Showed my brother this thread, and we both said go for the R1 05 model. The hondas are a good bike and more so comfortable and easier to ride fast, the R1 is bit trickier but has larger potential, if you can master it, but if budget isn't a problem, the a 05 1000 EGO MV Augusta, prolly set you back about $40k if you can get one only 20 are comming into the country.

But on genrealisation, jap bikes are fast/fun wheelie bike and

Euro bike are fast track bike but you have to be an ape to ride them.

and Ducs. are a joke, and ppls who rides ducs are regards as whingers in the real world.

Forgot to mention, we both are long time riders and has multiples bikes and my brother race the OZ SSB series.

Edited by hungry6

Hey GRUMPZ,

Im not sure where you are but why not go to a street drag meet and watch and talk to the guys there. I'm a semi regular at WSID and we always have a good bike turnout. The guys are friendly(its a 'happy' place :D )and will talk your ears off if you are genuinely interested. You'll see a good cross section of fast street bikes in action and get hands on direct info instead of passed on opinions. Go Leonard Azzarpardi !! He won his class at WSID last night on his sweeet as turbo'd Busa.....consistant 8 sec passes, just beautiful.

I've probably been around bikes longer than you've been walking....I still remember the huge excitement at the release of the ZZR1100 :(

Cheers, Caz..

ok im thinking of getting a new bike soon and reading RAPID motorcylce mag, do any of you guy's buy it ???? and in the recent  issue they have KRUSTY on his CBR1000RR ran a [email protected] and only to be beaten by the GREEDY judd who weighed 20 kg less then krusty with a [email protected] so realy krusty could of ran a nine.

ive also seen a bloke winge to a diffrent bike mag when they tested the GSXR1000 K5 and ran a 10.48 and he said this time was not doing the bike justice and said he drag races a  GSXR and should run a hi 9!!!!!! he was fumeing that this test ran this time and blamed  the riders 60ft time which was a speed of 0-100m in just over 3 sec (should be under 3 sec he said) so i was just wondering if any of you guy's know/have a bike with  ET times??????  also has anybody rode a SP1 VTR1000 FIRESTORM and what are they like compared to a GSXR1000,CBR1000RR,YAMMY R1...in speed reliability and performance . even the big busa which i dont like the shape of.

ps;;;or any other opinions on your fav ride and why

I have a GSXR 750. Aparently they do 10.6's of the production line.

These things are super fast. I wouldent recomend a big bike for starters, Altho it does come down to atitude and respect for power.

My first bike was a gixxer 750 at the age of 19, Altho i have been riding fast bikes/dirt bikes all my life and understand how they work and what there capable of. And am not they type to try and max it out or do stupid things on a bike.

Its about understanding your capabilities.

I dont recomend getting a big bike like a gixxer 750, 1k. etc if your never riden before.

These things are extremly quick, My bike has a few mods, altho i have never ran it (not really into 1/4 mile racing on a bike) It would pull a low/mid 10.

top speed of around 300km/h.

Edited by r0ma

I could never ride a litre-bike. I could never ride a bike over about 250cc. Unfortunately I lack the testicular fortitude required to pilot such a machine. I will stick to my stock RB20DET. 15 second flat across the quater is quick enough for me.

:D im in the hunter !!! not that close to wsid have been there, with mate that had a 400 chev in torana he likes the blades i like the gixers.

caz is that a black busa??? if is so yeah that thing is wild ( i dont want to go that crazy) i geuss im also just asking which one of these is easier to get parts/maintain and you were very happy with ( some one told me honda's find it hard sometimes to get parts?) hey it's good to see some of you guy's ride too ;):( yeah busa runs a hi 9 dont know excact figure but they are better to launch having a longer wheel base B)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually  
    • Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • 40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
×
×
  • Create New...