Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

never seen auto's on dyno. Why? Is there a tech reason? :D

I've got an Automatic (tiptronic) Skyline and set it on the dyno. No drama's about it

p.s only got auto cos it was hard to find manual with the 4 door R34

dont think they exist..

Ever seen a 2000hp drag car on the dyno - they usually make about 3/4 of that value. To much trans slip to give accurate readings not to mention changes in auto trans fluid temps(varying viscosity etc etc) not good for dyno comps or tuning at high levels of horsepower.

we had an auto r33 at the sau vic dyno day yesterday. was ran in 2nd gear as the auto juggles the power rating all over the place apparently when left in drive. the manuals are done in 4th gear so what power rating the auto gets i would say add %15 more power cos of the 2nd gear ratio? does that seem reasonable ?

You can run a car in any gear and it should give comparable horsepower readings. ie a manual R33 should give about the same power readings in 3 as it would in 4th within about 1-2% depending on the dyno operator. You must remember that dynos measure the rate of acceleration under a specified load and Horse power is a function of Torque and RPM so while lower gears will give a higher torque than a taller gear the RPM of the rollers is less in the lower gears than the higher gears.

Now dyno dynamics specify that their dyno's are accurate between about 80 -140km/hr. So the aim of the dyno operator is to choose a gear that will rev between these points.

Thanx 4 the replys everyone, very useful, Im asking really what i would have to do to get a high HP street car (auto) to be efficient on a dyno as well. Is there options for making an auto box perform well on the dyno? Shift kits etc. Any ideas?

nope. coz as soon as they ramp the power up it kicks back to 2nd anyways..unless u have it manualized.. they'll always do it in 2nd gear for the autos. .... and they seem to strap them down harder than teh manual cars.. coz apparently the auto (car itself) can jump on the dyno from time to time.

autos are the ghey... too much drivetrain loss thru slippage. .. thats just my personal opinion but.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...