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13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).


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Back on the PCV valve catch can subject, the PCV valve is only open at vacuum and shut at any boost pressure, so why block it off altogether as I thought the catch can is mainly necessary while under higher boost and not general cruising.

All you ever wanted to know about PCV - http://www.hastingsfilter.com/engineering/.../tsb_94-2r.html

Why have ANY crankcase vapor entering the manifold I say?

Originally posted by whatsisname

All you ever wanted to know about PCV -  http://www.hastingsfilter.com/engineering/.../tsb_94-2r.html

Why have ANY crankcase vapor entering the manifold I say?

I agree.

Your oil collects condensation overnight, which is the first thing to evaporate when you are warming up your engine. I don't like to come on boost when my engine is cold so all the crap would be going thro my engine(with the PVC valve operating). I have already experienced the following effects by blocking off the PVC valve- Cleaner oil, cleaner plugs , sh*t tins better fuel economy, no condensation coming out of my exhuast, cleaner intake system. from what I can see it does nothing at all to improve your engine just pollution control. I found a small screw fits nicely into the PVC valve and still looks standard.

Anyone got a pic to describe this mod? Ie where you have put the screw? roughly?

Boostd: do you need to have a catch tank or can you just do the screw mod with similar results? PM me if you dont wanna post this info :)

Thanks :P

Make sure you get one with two nipples, a level meter and a drain plug. Also the nipples should direct the air/vapour almost directly onto a metal plate, have a look inside one and you will see what I mean. I have seen some cheap cans that don't have this and fail to separate the oil and air properly which causes the filter to get blocked very quickly.

Originally posted by rev210

the highflow will help and so will the low ratio diff. Maybe 13 flat like you said if you can leave the line quick enough.

So you think if my Apexi speed meter is reading flat 13's then it should be correct for the type of mods ?

with the stock turbo the best time i got with the auto was a 13.59 then i installed the T3 / T4 combo and it went down to flat 14's.

Then i installed the manual 5 speed and it went down to 13.02 13.02 13.10 13.28

The dif ratio helps heaps because i get to wind it out in 4th heaps before the end of the quarter

Originally posted by Guilt-Toy

So you think if my Apexi speed meter is reading flat 13's then it should be correct for the type of mods ?

No not necassarily. I know of people with 12 second readings who can only do low 14's. The accuracy varies, on the whole it is not comparable at all to the real 1/4mile.

For the modifications you have I see a 13 second flat or a low 12 comming all things being right on the night (they seldom are).

Go race and find out.

Rev's right. The one thing the Apexi speed meters don't take into consideration is wheel spin.

You can sit in one spot and bag the wheels up, and once they wheels have done 400m worth of rotations it'll give you a time :P

Originally posted by Jay95R33

Rev's right.  The one thing the Apexi speed meters don't take into consideration is wheel spin.

You can sit in one spot and bag the wheels up, and once they wheels have done 400m worth of rotations it'll give you a time :P

When i do my quarter runs & 0-100 runs i DONT wheel spin.

I find i get better launches taking off clutch spin on boost and floor it once i feel im gettin enuf traction

Originally posted by qikr33

Hey guys just ran [email protected] at willowbank r33,3"exhaust ,pod filter (no shield) 10 psi,18 inch wheels 235,40,18 optimax fuel,2.00 60 ft .Any questions just ask

Thats what i like to see. Someone without huge mod pull a decent time. Well Done!

Is the zorst cat back or full?

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