Jump to content
SAU Community

13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).


Recommended Posts

Well then rev210, if you done a 13.3 with a 2.3 60ft a high 12 will be closely within your reach with some decent tires for sure :burnout:

Great work Motox :) Your time is simply brilliant considering you only have a catback zorst and boost upgrade. What size/brand tires do you use? I will be very interested to see how your upcoming cooler upgrade will affect your ET

I think i have ended up spending the same since I bought a FMIC and Apexi PFC (both can be got thru Nengun.siteblast.com for a total of $2500) but I didn't get the following parts listed in first post:

* Diff Cradle kit or 'pineapples' , the Whiteline kit No. KCA349.

* Ogura Lightwieght flywheel 4.8kgs.

* Ceramic puck sprung clutch and stock pressure plate

* Wrapped turbo to intercooler pipe (DEI thermal tape).

did [email protected] on road tires.....found the PFC better base (although I understand you did swap emanage for SAFC)

Originally posted by 4 Doorz

did [email protected] on road tires.....found the PFC better base (although I understand you did swap emanage for SAFC)

good stuff! Excellent work on the standard turbo too.

The 60ft times are real good for road tyres. Gezz 1.9, I could only dream of doing that time on the 205's , would give me an easy 12.8 if I could get that.

Post up the time slips when you can we need more evidence that the R33's aren't just big whales. :)

Guest MFX_R33

4 Doorz, what tyre pressure were you running also?

You were running normal street tyre pressure in yours weren't you Rev, if you let them down to about 12psi or so, your traction would be heaps better, and your 60ft will lower dramatically.

Jeff.

Guest MFX_R33

Basically the larger the surface are of the tyre touching the ground the greater the traction. The surface area of the tyre on the ground is basically the weight on the tyre divided by the pressure in the tyre. eg. if there is 12psi (12 "pounds per square inch") in the tyre and say there is 600 pounds of weight on that corner. Then the tyre will distort until the entire weight on the tyre is spread over 600/12= 50 square inches. If there were 30 psi in the tyre then the contact area would be 600/30= 20 square inches.

You can see that lowering the pressure GREATLY increases contact with the road, which increases traction.

Jeff.

Guest MFX_R33

There are other factors that come into play, like side wall flex, and tyre heat. The more the tyre distorts, the more the tyre will heat up which will work against you, but you are only talking about a very short period of time, and I am not an expert, but even if you don't lower them as far every psi of pressure you drop has a marked improvement on the contact area. This is why Drag cars use extremely low tyre pressues (also have soft sidewall's as well).

Jeff.

ran mine at 19spi left and 14.5psi right, last time (13.3 & 2.3 60ft). I completely stuffed it up when I let them down.

Normally I run 19psi in both I just misjudged.

12psi is too low for a street radial. A bit low for a slick as well.

MFX...if you run radials that low, the centre of the tire (which you see from behind) actually starts to raise up and the edges form two "bicycle tires"...you will end up with a not as much traction say as at 19psi. - Drag slicks are built to take 12 psi while road tyres are built for higher pressure, I think at least.

I am using some cheap federals I got with the car 235/40 on 18in. Was running them at 27 psi for 1st run then 25 for sec run.

My car was dynoed 192 rwkw by Gavin Woods (and ran a 13.2) but since then I have changed the tune a fair bit to get times down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
×
×
  • Create New...