Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was having a bit of fun with my fren in princess hwy. When i shifted to 2nd gear and rev around 6500rpm my engine suddenly juz lag on me..... How should i say it.... The feeling was like the same feeling when u release ur clutch too early and u get the choke. But it was on 6500rpm and the car is around 90km/h.

Is this wat they call PING? or my piston ring is f*ked? Anyone got the same experience before? Should i send my car to a mechanic? Can they detect anything without tearing the engine block apart ??

Help will be really appreciated.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/
Share on other sites

Pinging is also known as knocking basically its an uncontrolled detonation.

When your spark plug fires it has a controlled/smooth burn of the petrol but when its really hot per say then the fuel will ignite before the flame from the spark can get to it, combusting suddenly before the optimum moment aka the Power Stroke.

This uncontrolled detonation creates a shockwave which reverberates in the chamber creating a "Pinging" Sound. The Pinging sound is distinctly a metallic sort of pinging sound.

And thats what Pinging is :P

If you want to check if your Piston rings are f**ked do a compression test dry & wet obviously. If you get two totally differnt results on a cylinder from the Dry compared to the wet, then your rings could possibly be screwed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/#findComment-1685031
Share on other sites

I would recommend firstly removing the spark plugs and having a look at the electrode. The electrode should be brown to greyish white in colour and should show no signs of wear. If all is well there then my best guess without testing the car would be that your coil packs may be showing signs of failure. If the electrode is warn in any way it would suggest possible detonation.

The sound of detonation (Pinging) is very distinctive and my best description would be filling a tin can with marbles then shaking it like crazy. But then add exhaust, road noise and sound deadening and I am sure you get the idea. If this is the case it’s time for a tune and possible fuel system upgrades.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/#findComment-1685157
Share on other sites

My car is running fine now.

jmac - My car is running with standard ECU.

paulr33 - Boost gauge still showing that it on 0.5 bar when rev. So probably not the turbo problem.

By the way, do u think shifting gear around 6500 RPM is appropriate. I mean it is too early or push the engine too hard oledi. Juz want to be on the safe side.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/#findComment-1687961
Share on other sites

it just sounds like you had a AFM cut.

same as when you turn the boost up enough that the AFM can't measure the air coming in fast enough and you get a engine cut sort of thing.

where the accelaration stops instantly for a split second and the whole car jerks.

that's what probably happened.

I doubt you broke anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93367-engine-screwed/#findComment-1689231
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...