Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry i didn't read this post earlier, could have offered a few suggestions,had the same problems with my gtr when it arrived with no abs gear, ABS light on, 4WD light on. Thought they must be related cause i had read if you remove 4wd fuse also loose ABS. But after some stuffing around, the cause of 4wd light was faulty regulator on alternator supplying fluctuating current to TPS.

Removing ABS has no affect on 4wd, my system was simply unplugged and replaced with gtst master cylinder and piping.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so off topic a little bit, ive put a rb26/ gtr 5speed in my stagea, replacing the original rb25det/auto 4wd setup.

im running an Autronics smc ecu, and im wondering what do i connect the 3 wires from the original ecu to the ETS ecu to on my autronics smc?

i got someone to wire it up who thought they had a clue, turns out they did bugger all and the 4wd light and abs is staying on constantly.

its abit hard to work out if its engaging 4wd, or staying in 4wd constantly, or whatever without a torque split gauge. though it seems to get decent traction with over 350rwhp, but it sorta feels like its trying 4wd constantly, like when u back off the power it pulls ya forward in the seat like a 4wd hilux when in low range 4wd.

so whats the associated connectings to be checking, changing to make it same as factory (except running the autronics ecu instead)?

lastly what pin/colour wire do i connect a torque split gauge to, to be able to check it is operating correctly?

any info on the connections to ecu and the like would be most appreciated, as it seems u guys have a good understanding of the whole setup, and when i started a thread a few months ago knowone had a clue at all.

cheers

Brad

  • 3 months later...

Guys, i know its been a while since this thread has been in discussion. I've got an R33 GTR. ABS seems to not be working, i was told the module is somewhere in the boot near the battery. Anyone got a photo/diagram as to the exact location of the module/plug i need to check out?

  • 12 years later...

Hi guys sorry to dig up an old thread but I have exact same issue, error code 8 after removing ABS and no 4wd.

Nothing will fix it, I have bleed the atessa that's all good, 4wd pump is ok, tank has plenty of fluid.

Only time I can get the 4wd light to turn off is when the car is stopped and I disconnect the bleed connector, then the torque guage shows 10. Soon as I re-connect the bleed connecter 4wd light re appears.

love some help its cooking my brain

FYI, car runs Haltech elite

  • 1 year later...

Sorry for the thread revival but did anyone have a definitive answer to this code 8 with ABS pump deleted but wheel speed sensors still in place, issue please?

I'm currently working on the same above issue, the car has the ABS pump removed and is running a Full Race ETS-Pro 4WD controller so not your average factory specc'd car, so there may be some conflicts? I have noted that when the ignition is in the Acc position, (lights on dash but engine not started) the 4wd light comes on but only faintly, as soon as i use the toggle switch from 4wd to 2wd with the full race controller the light goes out and back on when you switch back to 4wd. Unfortunately when the engine is then started the 4wd comes on regardless of the 4wd/2wd switch position and the ECTS displays just code 8?

This wouldn't be an issue if the 4wd light wasn't illuminating but the fact it is suggests a slightly different issue to "just" it being the ABS pump being removed.

Cheers in advance for any help.

Bobby

Zealou5

 

Edited by Zealou5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
    • thanks GTSboy. My confusion at the moment is i am trying to locate the ignition, ECU battery power and the ECU negative The closest thing i can find is the for the S15 on Page 8 of the Wiring Specialties web page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENQnZ6STMxVmVNd1E/view?resourcekey=0-eZ4nNRwRoqa1qvKlWWHm8A I cannot find the same diagram for the R33 RB25DET Series 2 dash plug pin out.... Do you know what the Pins? or know where i can find the same pinout diagram for the RB dash plug? Thanks for the advice on the box... i like a 6 speed so might be on the lookout or the box now.. a topic of discussion for another post...
    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
×
×
  • Create New...