Jump to content
SAU Community

Heeelllllllllppp 4 Inch Speaker?

Ghostrider

By Ghostrider,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

To the almighty car audio guru's amongst us.

My HR30 Paul Newman Version has ONLY space for 4 inch speakers in the dash and I'm not going to start hacking into door trims that can't be replaced.

What I need to know is WHAT ARE THE BEST 4 inch Speakers that anyone has experienced? Will venture into splits, but am limited to 4 inch size.

I am not concerned with the lack of bass as I have a 12 inch Pioneer sub going into the rear.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
66 skyline gt Experienced

66 skyline gt

Posted
Posted

i picked up a set of boss 4 inch splits at strathfields for 40 bucks and they are bloddy fantastic, good bang for buck......... all the bits were included, including the crossovers as well ( rated at 180 watts too, good voice cone movement and strong and durable)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

You may be surprised with the Jaycar Response 2-way 4" spk. Had them installed in my work van, running off head unit, with a 12" powered by an amp. Sounded great.

A few years ago they where tested against leading manufacturers and came up on top. Not sure how they will rate now, but may be worth a listen. Just remember, no speaker will sound as good as the display speaker when you put it into your car, as the display speakers are acoustically sealed, and boosted by a high quality amp, some places also have subs hidden behind the board.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys, but I recently purchased a pair of Pioneer TSC1002 splits from Strathfield for $99.00.

We have a store in Campbelltown named Car Audio Excellence and the manager is BRAD. (next to Shell in Queen St)

I approached him and asked for a price on a set (pair) of Pioneer TSC1002's about 3 weeks ago, and he quoted me $105.00, but he suggested I wait for their 4 HOUR SALE on Friday 3rd December when everything will be up to 70% OFF.

So! stupid me I waited and on the 3rd they were 70% OFF, off full RRP $199.00 back to $129.00, but when I challenged the price he told me some bullsh!t story about OLD PRICES and he COULD NOT supply at cheaper than the sale price of $129.00.

The next day I found, to my surprise Strathfield was having a 4 day sale, Sat, Sun, Mon & Tuesday and on the Sat 4th December I purchased my pair @ $99.00.

I took the print out I took off the net to this BRAD guy from Car Audio Excellence, showing the price @ $99.00 and he said to me "NO PROBS, WHEN DO YOU WANT THEM" yet less than 24 hours before he couldn't supply them under $129.00.

BUYERS BEWARE ......... THIS GUY IS A CROOK AND SHOULD BE AVOIDEED AT ALL COSTS.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      ER34 AT ECU and HKS SLD pins

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Daleo
      Exemplary Сasual Dating - Real Women

      By Daleo · Posted

      Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • dyl33
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • GTSBoy
      Pillowball/Hardened Runner Hybrid Approach

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...