Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have a black widow alarm, Dont know the model as yet.

I am interested in getting a turbotimer/remote start system for the car.

But from what i have read, the ones im looking at, for the price, dont have immoblisers. I am wondering, am i able to have the remote start alarm, connected to my alarm, so i am able to use the immobliser?

Also, i am wondering what the quality of the items below. They have some awsome features, but one guy on here "abo bob" said he wouldnt bother with them because they have everything BUT an immobiliser. Which is the one important factor of any car alarm, if you ask me and/or anyone else with a skyline/car over $15k. LOL

here is the linkies. Give me your thoughts, Even better, if you own one, tell how well it does it job/how badly it does it/if it does it at all LOL.

The main one i wanted was the PAGEGUARD PG-8000S. For what i have come to understand the PYLE brand of audio is like worse than BOSS. So im more inclinded to stear clear of it, just give me your thoughts.

- PAGEGUARD PG8000S

- PAGEGUARD PG6000S

- Pyle PWD501

- FM 2 WAY 1.5KM (this one doesnt even have a brand name.)

CARSCOP (another no name)

- Last but not least - Viper 791XV

Give me your thoughts peoples.

pageguard 8000- done this one. VERY easily bypassed. (look at the wiring image - see the EXTERNAL relay.)

Pageguard 6000 - see above. very similar to the jaycar item actually.

Pyle- two module unit - sold under many brands hidden well enough it does ok. only one point and the relay is external but inthgrated into the main harness.

done this one on a WGC34

791 XV - done these on 32,33,34 skylines. biggest problem is the relay satellite. only drops the starter and extra points are possible but easily bypassed as they are external.

as for putting both together - nope.

if you are dead set on remote start look for remote start modules and not alarms. you still have the same problem and the insurance companies may not like you afterwards

( you have just cars for insurance?)

Edited by Chris Rogers

gktech aka EXAUNV sells those vipers on here...and as far as i know they have 2 points of immobilisation standard....

might have to sacrifice the wank factor of remote start for a better alarm. thats what I did...also came out in front, by getting aus standard....insurance friendly

chris rogers is your man for mongoose systems...great price

I just want a 2 way alarm more than anything else. The remote start doesnt get me all that much.

The reason i was thinking of getting the pageguard PG8000S is because of i dont have a turbo timer and i am going to get one soon, so i figured, instead of spending $130 - $230 on a turbo timer, why dont i just spend $300 on the page guard which has a turbo timer as well as a two way remote. I really like the idea of having a two way remote. As well as the pageguard 8000s and the 8500S (which is the model which takes pictures of within the car) having a really nice/sifisticated looking remote.

Could you also explain, all the point of immobilisation.

I herd there is like 6 points. Can you tell me what they are from one to six.

- pageguard 8000- done this one. VERY easily bypassed. (look at the wiring image - see the EXTERNAL relay.)

- the relay is external but inthgrated into the main harness.

- biggest problem is the relay satellite. only drops the starter and extra points are possible but easily bypassed as they are external.

Sorry, im a little n00b to auto electronics.

I dont really understand what you mean by they are easily bypassed and what the external relay is/does.

Could you also clairfy these things for me.

gktech aka EXAUNV sells those vipers on here...and as far as i know they have 2 points of immobilisation standard....

might have to sacrifice the wank factor of remote start for a better alarm. thats what I did...also came out in front, by getting aus standard....insurance friendly

chris rogers is your man for mongoose systems...great price

he was selling them. DEI australia had a polite chat with him over it as I understand.

the ones he was selling were SINGLE point (I did a fair few of these into 33 & 34 skylines.)

I just want a 2 way alarm more than anything else. The remote start doesnt get me all that much.

The reason i was thinking of getting the pageguard PG8000S is because of i dont have a turbo timer and i am going to get one soon, so i figured, instead of spending $130 - $230 on a turbo timer, why dont i just spend $300 on the page guard which has a turbo timer as well as a two way remote. I really like the idea of having a two way remote. As well as the pageguard 8000s and the 8500S (which is the model which takes pictures of  within the car) having a really nice/sifisticated looking remote.

Could you also explain, all the point of immobilisation.

I herd there is like 6 points. Can you tell me what they are from one to six.

who is the car insured with? if its like most companies requiring a 2pt (minimum) Immobilser) then they do NOT want : coloured wires, external points of immobilsation (IE external relays) that are easily found and removed, one that doesn't auto arm if you forget, doens have glass break detection or shock. ( the PG units have a horrible shock sensor its on or off - very little in between)

6 points can be anything inthe car. there is not set rule on this. if I cut the fuel pump in 6 places then thats 6 point immobilisation.

Sorry, im a little n00b to auto electronics.

I dont really understand what you mean by they are easily bypassed and what the external relay is/does.

Could you also clairfy these things for me.

easily bypassed means that I can ( and usually under a 30 sec to a minute) find the unit - unlpug it and drive off in my newly acquired skyline that I either intend to thrash and burn or strip and sell for parts.

ask DAN666 about easily bypassed on a 33. he should clear it up for you. ( the 34 he has now isn't going anywhere unless I take it.)

most of the korean/chinese alarms have the immobilsation point outside of the alarm. they use a relay ( electronic switch as a simple term) to immobilise a circuit on the car. now if you look closely at the image (PG8000) you will see a small black box - that is the immobilisation relay. find that relay and the car is GONE! ( actually find the module and unplug it and its gone anyway.)

any questions ring me ( website link in sig or contact link in sig) or send me a pm. I'm not a MSN person and not always on the PC.

Does my new alarm meet/beat all of the above criteria chris?

and i dont see the problem with greg selling the alarms if he can sell them at half the price they charge. if they cant handle the competition they should lower their price. and maybe make them aus standard if they want to sell them in aus

ive got the pg8000 its ok not too sure about the whole relay thing but the senor is pretty touchey! but you can change how touchey it is its on about medium on mine not too bad now or you can turn it off. so if they get in the car with the alarm going off and unplug the system its not guna save anything? hmmm reasonabley easy to find on mine.... hmmm ohhhno!!! i like the colour screen remote thought and pretty cheap too. but hey if they no good there no good.i might try and hide the system a bit more some how.

I've got a page 8000, I'm yet to install it , but from my understanding it has an internal relay, not external .

It looks like a very good alarm and the electronics are heavyduty , Not flimsy like other alarms .

There is no relay that comes with the kit like other alarms I've fitted .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...