Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Today i picked up a standard R32 GTR airbox (thanks Tosh/Joanne), to my suprise it's aluminium - i thought it would be plastic

The plan was if i bought one of these i could swap it with a mates ARC airbox, but now ive seen the Nissan part isnt cheap plastic im keen to investigate further and see if its better for me to keep the OEM box.

Has anyone got suggestions/bad stories/feedback - WHATEVER - on these boxes??

Its all really appreciated -Thanks

Engine Specs:

GTR with RB26DETT (of course)

currently has m's pods

Microtech (so AFM's are only there for the police)

Runs 15psi

Everything else induction side is standard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/
Share on other sites

well the ARC boxes are pretty good. They have a much greater filter surface area than a standard air box and are a better design over all. other than that the best imo would be a pair of apexi pods with the carbon apexi airbox.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1695400
Share on other sites

In regards to filter surface area - finding a filter for the ARC box has proved to hard for my mate and he blanked off the front facing vent

So its only using the top vent - im guessing this will hurt its performance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1695432
Share on other sites

other than that the best imo would be a pair of apexi pods with the carbon apexi airbox.

Hey Beer Baron, I can't recall where I read it but apparently the ARC air boxes are far superior to pod filters. As I said, I'm going on what I read and I'm not sure where I read it. So I can't provide any proof.

Edited by manage13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1695504
Share on other sites

Hey Beer Baron, I can't recall where I read it but apparently the ARC air boxes are far superior to pod filters. As I said, I'm going on what I read and I'm not sure where I read it. So I can't provide any proof.

the ARC airbox is pretty good. I should know, I had one. I've also used HKS pods, and Apexi pods too.

I do still think the combination of Apexi pods AND the Apexi Carbon Air box will be the ultimate combo. The arc box may be better than say just a set of naked pods. The only other downside with the ARC box is that it is bloody heavy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1697108
Share on other sites

There's been a lot of discussion on this, a search should yield good results.

It seemed at the time that the stock airbox, as long as that stupid resonator box was removed from the front of it, woud flow quite a bit and provide some protection from heat also. I think the Mines GTR runs something lke 600hp and a stock box, for the mods you have it would appear that the stock box is more than OK. And then you have the advantages of standard appearance, cheap and readily available filters etc. You can modify the underside to accomodate another duct if you need it.

As I understand it the ARC ones also have problems with ingesting hot underbonnet air.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1697137
Share on other sites

actually i though i did have a pic, but i can't find it anymore, or the website i got it off. It was awesome though and shaped to fit the apexi pods. the only downside i could see was that it cost nearly $1000....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1698323
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...