Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Today i picked up a standard R32 GTR airbox (thanks Tosh/Joanne), to my suprise it's aluminium - i thought it would be plastic

The plan was if i bought one of these i could swap it with a mates ARC airbox, but now ive seen the Nissan part isnt cheap plastic im keen to investigate further and see if its better for me to keep the OEM box.

Has anyone got suggestions/bad stories/feedback - WHATEVER - on these boxes??

Its all really appreciated -Thanks

Engine Specs:

GTR with RB26DETT (of course)

currently has m's pods

Microtech (so AFM's are only there for the police)

Runs 15psi

Everything else induction side is standard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/
Share on other sites

well the ARC boxes are pretty good. They have a much greater filter surface area than a standard air box and are a better design over all. other than that the best imo would be a pair of apexi pods with the carbon apexi airbox.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1695400
Share on other sites

In regards to filter surface area - finding a filter for the ARC box has proved to hard for my mate and he blanked off the front facing vent

So its only using the top vent - im guessing this will hurt its performance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1695432
Share on other sites

other than that the best imo would be a pair of apexi pods with the carbon apexi airbox.

Hey Beer Baron, I can't recall where I read it but apparently the ARC air boxes are far superior to pod filters. As I said, I'm going on what I read and I'm not sure where I read it. So I can't provide any proof.

Edited by manage13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1695504
Share on other sites

Hey Beer Baron, I can't recall where I read it but apparently the ARC air boxes are far superior to pod filters. As I said, I'm going on what I read and I'm not sure where I read it. So I can't provide any proof.

the ARC airbox is pretty good. I should know, I had one. I've also used HKS pods, and Apexi pods too.

I do still think the combination of Apexi pods AND the Apexi Carbon Air box will be the ultimate combo. The arc box may be better than say just a set of naked pods. The only other downside with the ARC box is that it is bloody heavy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1697108
Share on other sites

There's been a lot of discussion on this, a search should yield good results.

It seemed at the time that the stock airbox, as long as that stupid resonator box was removed from the front of it, woud flow quite a bit and provide some protection from heat also. I think the Mines GTR runs something lke 600hp and a stock box, for the mods you have it would appear that the stock box is more than OK. And then you have the advantages of standard appearance, cheap and readily available filters etc. You can modify the underside to accomodate another duct if you need it.

As I understand it the ARC ones also have problems with ingesting hot underbonnet air.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1697137
Share on other sites

actually i though i did have a pic, but i can't find it anymore, or the website i got it off. It was awesome though and shaped to fit the apexi pods. the only downside i could see was that it cost nearly $1000....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93888-best-airbox/#findComment-1698323
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...