Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just looking at doing my own install and having trouble working out where to put the crossover and placement of the tweeter and so forth....

The rear speakers are piss easy to put on.... the fronts are a pain for placement.

The woofer is 6.5", will i need anything special (spacers) to mount the woofer in the door?

Any tips would be fantastic, i cant seem to find any guides for r33 installs apart from HU's

Cheers,

Steve.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93900-splits-install-in-r33/
Share on other sites

The pods are tricky. 6.5" max, and then you're not guaranteed that they will fit the strange hexagon shape.

Best to take the trim off (5 minutes), then take a pod off (20 secs) and take that down to an audio place. Find a speaker that fits the hole, will screw in properly and isn't too deep.

The Skyline pods have a plastic rear, which is your maximum depth. Once you choose a speaker, it's not a bad idea to cut that plastic rear off, cause it just bounces sound around.

I'll post a pic of the pod up for you later if you like.

Don't really need any diagrams... RCA's out of your HU, into the amp. Then +ve and -ve speaker wires go into the screw-clamps on the amp.

Easy =-]

Although if I run an amp in this car later, i'm going to try something... .running the speaker wire from an amp in the boot, up to the front of the car, then plug it into the crimps that I made that go into the HU. Unplug wires from HU, plug them into wires running from boot, and that takes care of the front speakers!

I mounted new splits, and ran the tweeter on the mirror-sails. Instead of this bodgy install, I drilled another hole in each of the sail to run the wire out of the tweeter and directly inside the sail. The wires then run down the door to the splitter, which is constructed in-line. (rather than a big box splitter)

post-3573-1131419603.jpg

post-3573-1131419688.jpg

Look at that! Two screws to hold the speaker... and they aren't even driven in properly. This JBL 3-way doesn't fit in the pod, so the previous owner just had it sitting angled.

Also, the stock speaker wire had telephone wire wrapped around it, which then wrapped around the speaker terminal. I haven't seen anything this bad before. =-o

Thanks for all of the above!!!

Telephone cable??? bahahaha thats almost valid for "What The"

Hey, how did you go getting a pic of a parcel shelf (prev thread) Im still waiuting for my R33 to arrive and i want to get a heads up on design for the install and i will need to make a custom parcel shelf and work out a design...

Hi guys,

Just looking at doing my own install and having trouble working out where to put the crossover and placement of the tweeter and so forth....

I have splits in my car, (r33) I put the crossover in the bottom left hand corner of the door. On both doors.

i have my front splits 6.5" alpine woffers in the door and tweeter on top corners of the dash wired into the amp in the back and my splitter boxes are next to each other underneath where the headunit is mounted on the carpet behind everything, everything is nice and hidden and easy that way cause you can use the factory wiring for the door speekers and wire it into the splitter box and run new wiring for the tweeters and if its going to the headunit almost no extra wire lenght needed

i put the crossovers in the end of the map pockets where u cant see them, although i had to trim the top off them because they were originally too high.

in relation to the speakers, i cut out mdf and screwed that to the door onto which the speaker is drilled, so a very solid mount compared to mounting on the stock plastic mount.

I found the plastic pods to be reasonable, but i'll be pulling the trim off and having another look though. Everything else in the doors have started to rattle now, but it appears to be just the trim itself... so i'm going to whack some foam padding around the place.

As far as parcel shelf pics, a few people have posted some up here and there. I have a pic from somone who's selling theirs with holes drilled through the speaker-mesh, and also I have a pic from a wrecker who is selling one. I like the idea of having the stock speaker mesh!

Oh... from what I could see, the hole are TINY under the mesh. My car has the holes bodgily cut out wider. Someone got a knife and cut them as wide as the holes in the metal beneath it... and it's not a proper circle either.

Are spacers for the fronts and rears nessecary at all? i'm getting 4x6.5" speakers put in next week but don't want them sticking outta my doors or off my parcel shelf. The factory look'll do for me (less inviting for theives!!)

Apparently 6.5' will fit right into the rear parcel shelf, and the stock shelf comes with big speaker grilles that would cover anything you put in the shelf.

That's exactly what i'm trying to do by sourcing a stock parcel shelf!

The doors... well.. some speakers fit, some don't. It seems to depend on whether the screw mounting-points on the speakers are protruding outside of the circumference. If the holes are built into the ring of the speaker, it *should* fit... If not, everyone is making MDF speaker mounts and pulling the pods off. You won't know if your speaker choice will fit until you put it in the pod and line it up. =-[

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
    • Ohhh I see lol To be honest the main reason why I wanted to start modding is because of a business trip to Japan and Indonesia. I saw many cool and modded cars all throughout in these countries, especially Japan. I myself am of Chinese+Japanese nationality and when living in china (never lived in Japan js my dad side lol) I remember staring at these cars pass by with their loud tacky exhausts and insane wide body kits. And when I went back to Japan, I got even more invested even asking people about their cars and why they modded. Most gave similar answers to what you said but funny enough one guy just said that he saw the need for speed movie being filmed once in Tokyo I think near Shibuya Crossing and got inspired to tune and mod. After that I just started to fantasize on owning a car like that. Also tbh I prefer the R32 over the R34 it's just the R34 is more iconic lol (also apparently better aftermarket support than the R32) and my only goal really is just to make the car mine and make it fun to drive. As much as I love my Cayenne it's pretty bland to drive. Sure the interior is nice and pretty, gives you attention yada yada but I've wanted to experience what it is like to have a car that is truly yours. I suppose thats the goal so far. Haha if you find where I'm from, then sure. Ill help you out on your next "financial decision"
×
×
  • Create New...