Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just bought a n R32 GTS-T which has a remote oil filter kit and i want to know if there is a correct procedure to change the oil and filter ? Any help would be great  thanks ! :)

I was asking because the lines to the remote filter would be emptied of oil. I thought that this may have been a concern ! I've done plenty of oil changes before, but none with a remote filter.

I was asking because the lines to the remote filter would be emptied of oil. I thought that this may have been a concern ! I've done plenty of oil changes before, but none with a remote filter.

ah yep... sorry for the cynical reply there.. was in a bad mood!

it won't be a problem, when you start the car, oil will run through the lines and fill up the filter.

when car is off, oil drains out of the filter/lines into the sump anyway.

ah yep... sorry for the cynical reply there.. was in a bad mood!

it won't be a problem, when you start the car, oil will run through the lines and fill up the filter.

when car is off,  oil drains out of the filter/lines into the sump anyway.

Cheers guys, i feel better knowing motul is in the sump now ! Average oil temp is down about 4 degrees.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm needing to change my oil too (already put about 5000km on it since I bought it two months ago!) actually but I haven't tried it before, but going by the description I found on the forum I reckon I should be right.

Anyway, just a question, how do I tell a remote filter or if I've just got a regular filter and more importantly, which oil filter do you guys use??

Cheers

AF

I'm needing to change my oil too (already put about 5000km on it since I bought it two months ago!)  actually but I haven't tried it before, but going by the description I found on the forum I reckon I should be right.

Anyway, just a question, how do I tell a remote filter or if I've just got a regular filter and more importantly, which oil filter do you guys use??

Cheers

AF

The standard filter is a Z145A, Ryco or K&N are both good or you can get a genuine part from Nissan. I've got a Greddy filter on my remote set up. The standard filter will be down on the side of your engine block. A remote filter will usually be found up near the top of the right shock tower. Check out this attatchment.....

post-24581-1132745579.jpg

Just my 2 cents........

I have a drain valve installed in one of the oil cooler lines and when I do my oil changes I drain as much as I can from the cooler. I've found that most of the oil does NOT drain back to the sump unless your oil cooler AND lines are mounted above the level of the filter boss on the engine block. Thusly I put a drain valve in place to get more of the old oil out during a change.

When I re-fill the sump with oil, I disconnect the ignition control module and crank the engine over for about 5 seconds to pump some oil through the system, then re-connect the ignition and start her up. Oil pressure comes up much quicker so there's less chance of hurting the engine. Yes, you may very well reduce the life of your starter motor but a starter motor is a lot cheaper to replace than a set of bearings :P

The standard filter is a Z145A, Ryco or K&N are both good or you can get a genuine part from Nissan. I've got a Greddy filter on my remote set up. The standard filter will be down on the side of your engine block. A remote filter will usually be found up near the top of the right shock tower. Check out this attatchment.....

ahh i see :P

thats a nice engine bay dude :D

very clean lookin sharp

like the carbon fibre :P

The standard filter is a Z145A, Ryco or K&N are both good or you can get a genuine part from Nissan. I've got a Greddy filter on my remote set up. The standard filter will be down on the side of your engine block. A remote filter will usually be found up near the top of the right shock tower. Check out this attatchment.....

Thanks SNISMO, got to say that's a pretty nice engine bay! Good Photo too really explaines everything :rolleyes:

  • 2 years later...

I know this thread is old but I thought I'd post here since it's a good thread. Just had the car service, has a remote oil filter. Now they ended up putting about 5 and a bit litres of oil into the engine. Brought then a 4ltr and 2ltr bottle of Motul Chronos 300v. Now I thought the maximum to fill would be 4.5, but they basically said there should not be an issue with overfilling it with oil due to the extra lines running to the remote oil filter and oil cooler. Sounds fair enough, just wondering if it's true. Just most of the other times, Just used a normall 5ltr bottle or 4.5 litre bottle of oil.

I had a GReddy oil relocator fitted to my car last week and with all the extra crap in the gtr we couldnt find anywhere neat to mount it on the strut tower like most people do, we ended up fitted it below the engine right next to the sump drain bolt with a little custom bracket.

I'm glad it ended up this way because their would be nothing worse than having a relocator fitted only to have oil piss all over the place because it is mounted upside down, that kinda defeats the whole purpose of it, if I wanted to make a mess I would have just left it where it is.

smear some oil on the rubber seal of the filter, then screw it on as tight as you can with your bare hands. if it leaks, tighten a bit more with an oil filter wrench ($10) but it shouldnt have to be very tight

dude...I am glad that I am not doing your oil changes....In every oil filter change I have ever done its always been done with one hand only.There is no need to lock them up that tight.Using two hands to tighten up is a bit too much ...but using a wrench to tighten it???? first time I have ever heard of anyone doing this.

I had a GReddy oil relocator fitted to my car last week and with all the extra crap in the gtr we couldnt find anywhere neat to mount it on the strut tower like most people do, we ended up fitted it below the engine right next to the sump drain bolt with a little custom bracket.

I'm glad it ended up this way because their would be nothing worse than having a relocator fitted only to have oil piss all over the place because it is mounted upside down, that kinda defeats the whole purpose of it, if I wanted to make a mess I would have just left it where it is.

hey I like your idea very much.Sure they look good in magazines mounted upside down but I have always wondered how they are changed without making a mess..Any chance of putting any pictures up ?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...