Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The guy had been recommended and I had used him before to respray the rear wing. I was happy with the job he did, so I didn't bother with other quotes.

Yes, the car is as you deciphered (engine is from a Stagea).

I guess I am considering a Stagea conversion in my GTS4. What did you pay for the engine? Is it stock? Which turbo did you go with? Did you do the swap yourself? Have you driven a GTR - does it compare? If you had it to do again considering the cost and result would you do it?

Lots of questions for enquiring minds.

$500 is way too much

There is a place in bayswater that will respray an entire car in 2-pak oven baked enamel for $599.....

Expect $100-150ish for just a front bar, just get a few quotes. Front bar is easy-as, because you can take the whole thing off the car, and don't have to remove any trims or anything.

Just go around a few panel beaters, and get some prices. don't pay $500, a front bar isn't hard to do at all.

true, but for spraying a front bar. not much to screw up. u can spend 3 hours doing it and it will be perfect. so depends on how much they charge per hour, and what paint they use.

Plus you mentioned your cost included some modifications, so hard to compare what it would cost for just the respray...

Depends where you live....i paid 350 for my vertex front bar to be sprayed, they cleaned it up made the lines flow, put to layers of undercoat on the fibreglass so that the actual paint would stick, then they sprayed it in the skyline burgandy (wine) colour and clear coated it.......looks better then my cars paint lol...and i thought 350 was a jip..CHAMPION CRASH REPAIRS ADELAIDE

ye $500 is too steep, u can buy your own spray painting gear and paint for that and still have money left over. My mate bought his own compressor, paint, sprayer and did his own spraying and came out good.

$500 to spray a front bar alone is very high and far from normal...i'd expect to pay anywhere between $250-300 for a GOOD job...

goodluck

Yeah it is expensive, but if you want a proper job you have to pay for it.

I personally have had a few spray jobs done...the basic price for this place i go to is $200 per panel or part...and the work is top notch...you'll be hard pressed to find workmanship of this calibre even at higher prices...i'm a firm believer of the saying "you get what you pay for" too...made that mistake before...krzysiu...since you're in melbourne too...if you ever need some work done...drop me a PM...i can guarantee you won't be disappointed with the quality of work done at this place....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...