Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey alll....

Firstly yes i have searched etc etc etc...

anyways i have a 32 with the type m brakes.....

now im looking at doing a bit of work as i mayaswell do it all in one hit....

My mechanic got a quote from DBA for front rotors, pads for all wheels etc... $1700 without labour as the rotors are $350 each or sumthing......

So im looking into the RDA rotors which i found a topic on and they seem to be the sheeeet....

Im still undecided which pads im going to go for.. the car is mainly street and has seen the track a couple of times... now i want something that is good on the street but wont shit themselves on the track.....

Im basically upgrading pads and front rotors and getting rears machined.....

Can you tell me your experiences, prices, best brands etc etc....

Im not looking to spend bucket loads but it is a very important part of the car i know that

thanks yall

Ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94691-r32-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Im not one to normally try and undersell the pricing of mechanics as they have rent, insurance, (overheads) and need to turn a profit :O

But brakes are the sort of thing that the average punter can themself if they are careful. I rang around early thing year for some 324mm DBA rotors and was able to find them for approx $250 each. I wouldnt think the std R32 280mm rotors would be much more expensive then that, perhaps they would be cheaper as they dont have GTR part number ;)

Prices may have gone up in the past 8 months ????

Pads, well i have not really tried all that many compunds, but for what you describe Race Brakes RB74 fronts and Comp 2 rears have always served me well. Some RBF 600 fluid (assuming you dont have ABS) will work wonders if well flushed thru your lines.

So fluid is $60 ($30 x 2 bottles) , pads i seem to recall would be about

$350. A brake bleed kit is $20 and you will need a willing friend :P

Throw it all one yourself one weekend...which isnt too hard at all, i think a search of the forum will tell you what you need to know, otherwise grab one of those DIY service manual/books for $30 odd.

So for less then $1000 you should be able to get new front rotors, fresh pads, fresh fluid and if your rear rotors need machining then take it your local place and get them to machine the rotors for you. About $60 i paid for fronts about 6 months ago.

Actually may be a good idea to give them the rear pads to install at the same time the rotors are machined (Highly recommended)

So including labour id say the price is not too bad, plus labour then id be getting a working bee together, unless you couldnt be bothered/dont have th espace time etc. I did a friends car earlier this year and even with me drinking cans and dribbling about how GTRs suck and GTSTs RUUUUUUUUUUUUUUULE it only took about 2-3 hours with only a car jack :lol:

Got my R32 upgraded with DBA rotors on the front and machined rears with endless super street m's on front and 8500's rear. But the DBA's are pretty good, got the 4000 series just slotted rotors, didnt want the drilled and slotted coz im iffy on quality, most drilled rotors get stress fractures and crack. But yeh made a bit of a difference especially stopping out on the track

LOL... i dunno. :shrugs:

Two different places have asked do i have ABS when buying the RBF600. I havent read anything on Motul sites about not suitable for ABS equipped cars, but thats what i have been told ?!?!?!

Dont know hpw credible the source of the information is but i was told if you have ABS you shoudl stick with the Motul 5.1. Perhaps it has soemthing to do with seals etc etc?!?!?!!?

Sorry couldnt be more help, perhaps try looking at Motul website or ringing a distributer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...