Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Something like one of these?

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=11

Can get them from a sponsor on NS:

10” Kit p/n 0045 $110

12” Kit p/n 0062 $170

16” Kit p/n 0066 $250

I'd stick with a replacement stock fan if i were you.

I have 2 12inch thermos sitting against the radiator and they struggle to keep the temps down on hot days and in traffic. I will probably be making a shroud for them eventually.

I cant fit the stock fan in mine anymore. I wish i could as i never had a problem with overheating even on 40 degree days with the AC running flat out.

Definitely need a shroud, DO NOT attach them directly to the radiator as I did. :P

I found in heavy traffic it was fine providing temps were not over 30degree's and or I had the A/C on.

Its really not cool spending so much money on thermo fans only to find they don't work correctly.

I've known one other to run one of the big 16" davis fans I think it was. That 'apparently' kept the car cool.

If doing so, DO NOT skimp out on wiring and cheap supercrap fuse; as I did. :)

Head down to jaycar and pick up some decent gear, 2 x 12" thermo's suck a bit of juice, you want them getting all the volts they can and not making the wire warm to touch.

Edited by Cubes

I have a 16" ICE thermo, the trick with fans is where possible don't mount them flush on the radiator, they need to be set back slightly to be at their most effective.

The 16" is good as it's larger than the core is high, so when you strap it on it sits against the top/bottom tanks, giving you said gap.

Mine has been working well without a shroud, but it's on the cards, i also have to wire up a proper thermatic switch as i just do it manually after the car has warmed up at the moment (risky i know).

Oosh,

Take it in to peak hour traffic with the a/c on some time...

The only way I can think of to tell what the temp is without a digital readout is to jump out and check if the engine over heat fan has came on. It comes on around 90-91degree's.

Mine in peak hour traffic (South Road and Marion Road intersection is bad) when not moving with the a/c on will get damn close to 100degree's. As soon as you start moving (even slowly) temps drop down to under 90. Generally 88, once up and moving at a decent rate it drops to 86.

That being said if I simply idle the car with the a/c on some where on the street or at my house it will only get 90-92.

The road temp of peak hour traffic is a killer. :O

I have the consult readout, i must admit i haven't had a peak hour/hot day/ac combination as yet (i have a pretty clear run to work), but i've yet to see higher than 86 with fans on (it's got higher when I've forgot to switch them on :O)

Edit: Anyone know the max you'd want to see before it's trouble? Sounds like you've been pushing the limits Joel.

Edited by Oosh
(RB26dett in a 4 door

My dream...

*sigh*

What 4 door? 32, 33? Cefiro?

thanks.

OOsh - have you condsidered a thermo switch that can also turn the fans on (even when manually off?)

I run Nulon green coolant, that boils at ~124degree's.

Also remember the thicker rating of oil is measured at 100degree's.

I think most will find..... with the a/c on, a 35+degree day, in peak hour traffic (where you don't move for 5minutes, then move a few places then another 5minutes. :P) with ambient temps hitting 50-60degree's your car will most definitely hit around 90-100degree's as mine does. :( Unless something is completely wrong with mine. :)

Usual peak hour traffic where traffic movement is moving nicely with occasional stops it wont get over 92. With the a/c off it will drop some where around 86.

Edited by Cubes

Ebola - I've got the gear to run it automatically, just haven't got around to hooking it up, ahh procrastination. :(

Bl4cK32 - That's what i figured, even if the boiling point is higher, i wanna stay the right side of 100C.

Cubes - Sounds OK to me. :D

Im using Ford EF Falcon twin thermos in their factory shroud. Because there wasnt enough room between the engine and radiator due to the power steering pump, ive mounted them in front of the radiator and reversed the direction of fan rotation so that they push air through the radiator. After a bit of trimming of the plastic shroud (and mounting them upside down), they fit like factory! Also, you cant see them because ive got one of those air deflector plate thingys. I can also stagger the temps at which the two fans come on so that idle doesnt suffer as it would if the fans started at the same time. Only cost me a hundred bucks too.

I dont reckon you can beat factory fans. You need to get some with significant rake of the blades so that they push heaps of air. The aftermarket ones ive seen just have flat blades almost.

Anyway, just an option for those without air conditioning!

Shaun.

  • 3 months later...

Thanks a lot for replies guys, I am trying to source an EL falcon twin setup and finding that they are around 180-200 dollars new and 150 - 175 second hand which isn't that bad considering the davies craig setup costs more. However the standard wreckers places have all been stripped so you have to get these from a ford dealer as far as I have found. I am concerned now about trying to control the fan and wondering if I can just use the thermostat off the radiator. Could someone who has mounted thermo's provide more information on how it should be wired :yes:. Cubes you mentioned what not to do, what exactly did you do? :P.

Incase you were wondering why i'm doing this, the clutch fan started flexing into the powersteering pump belt on let off (from about 5000RPM) and literally flicking the belt off. I tried trimming the blades a little but that didn't really achieve much so i'm going for a thermo setup. The fan was mounted with a large spacer which i'm not certain is stock so if anyone knows about such things feel free to let me know as i'd love to work out exactly how all this came about :). The problems really started because I got an SR20 pump mounted instead of the RB26 pump as hicas was locked and I didn't need the RB26 unit anymore (and RB25 pumps are much too long). Let this be a warning that modding the powersteering pump on any RB engine is probably fraught with such dangers as there is VERY little clearance in this area :(.

ps. It's an R32 GTS-4 4 door.

IMG_19256small.JPG

Edited by Sarumatix

Don't worry too much about keeping your coolant below 100 degrees. Even if you use plain water it will go a fair bit higher than this because the system is under pressure and hence the boiling point is higher. On my motorcycle, the thermo fans don't kick in until it's well over 100 degrees, probably at around 105-108. I've been sitting in traffic in the middle of summer and it will get up to around 110 before it drops, but it always drops by this point and never overheats. My previous bike used to get up to around 115-118 on the hottest days. I think this is stupidly high because it heats up your legs via the exhaust and gets uncomfortable, but apparently it's fairly normal on sports bikes.

By all this I'm not saying to aim for a thermo cutoff of 120+ degrees, but you have a lot more headroom than you think if you find yourself overheating in traffic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...