Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a run with an R33 GTR and it wasn't any faster then my car. It was from about 60 km/h so four wheel drive had nothing to do with it. Hit 160 and he didn't pass me.

I've got a R33 GTS-t with full exhaust, Pod filter, big intercooler running nearly standard boost.

The GTR looked stock standard with an Exhaust tip...

Does this sound right?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9475-gtr-vs-gts-t/
Share on other sites

okay lets way up the differences

Gtr= Twin Turbo

Gtst = Single turbo

hmmm 1 difference and i already see that you gonna have to be running one not so big but decent size powered puffer to be keeping up with gtr?

and if it was a gtr man is he a shit driver!

no offence dude

but this was prolly gts-t with gtr badge

kinda like non-turbo supra drivers driving around trying to drag as if they own a twin turbo supra!

adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9475-gtr-vs-gts-t/#findComment-143492
Share on other sites

With a genuine 180rwkw a GTS25t will @ the least match a standard R33 GT-R on a roll, from a standing start forget it if the GT-R driver can launch.

A stock R33 GT-R is ~175-180rwkw on the average DD dyno & weights over 100kg more than a GTS25t.

I've put quite a few lengths (~5) on an R33 GT-R V Spec (exhaust/filters & boost increase) from a 70km/h roll to the top of 3rd, he went first. The driver of the GT-R & I spoke after the run. He was in the same gear as me & didn't stuff up. It was an honest run. Then again I wasn't exactly stock @ that stage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9475-gtr-vs-gts-t/#findComment-143703
Share on other sites

If its modded enough a GTS-T could theoretically win... but it would need a fair amount of mods and be getting good traction and be a good driver. It still comes just down to rwkw

Sounds like either not a genuine GTR or he was just toying with you - most GTR owners i have seen on the streets drive very slowly...mainly 'cause i think they can't afford to insure it after spending all that money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9475-gtr-vs-gts-t/#findComment-143757
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...