Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by INASNT

he does drive like a granny apparently! :)

I know you're trying to get a rise outta me and it ain't gonna happen today :P

I admit that on any given day, I will drive the car in the most inconspicous way possible coz of the number of canaries which flying round these days.

I'm not one to make a huge scene out there. If you took notice of my car, it's probably only coz it has white Volk Challenge rims on it which contrasts with the purple.

I have been known to open the wastegate once in a while late at night but the fact is that you'll only hear the gate when there is someone out there worth challenging. Petrol is expesive these days and at 22L for the 100kms at normal driving, I don't have a lot of it :P

After the cruise on the 10th, I started with a full tank and after coming back from Arthur's Seat, my tank was less than a quarter.

600 horses? Now that I've sorted my spark problem, get ready for some real hp :P

Besides, INSANT, even when I do drive like a granny, I reckon I could give you a decent run for your money :P

As for being rich.....well that is nothing but perception really. I'm pretty broke now that I've bought a house :P

Besides, INSANT, even when I do drive like a granny, I reckon I could give you a decent run for your money :D

No rise from you??? why not??? hehehe

U forget i actually drove your car when i was getting the fmic put on :bahaha:

If u change gears at 2000rpm when u race me i will beat u :P

I'll cut you a deal. I'll change gears 2000 rpm before my rev limiter :D

Originally posted by INASNT

No rise from you??? why not???  hehehe

U forget i actually drove your car when i was getting the fmic put on :bahaha:  

If u change gears at 2000rpm when u race me i will beat u :P

Originally posted by BoOsTeD_RB26

it sounds odd.....it was probably more luck than anything. What kinda power are you making?

I thought the GTR standard was 207 kilowatts from engine right?

which is about 210 rwhp.

with FMIC and a few other little things the gtst would easily be pulling 210 rwhp....

so if on rolling start why do you think the GTR would win? wouldn't it be even? twin or single turbo still same HP from rolling start and close weight between the 2..

Well I'm pretty sure it was a real R33 GTR. It had the wide guards and standard GTR body, even a VSpec sticker on the back too.

Something I didn't mention before was, the GTR had 2 people in it and I was by myself... Still I think a R33 GTR does 0-100 in maybe 5 seconds and a GTS-t is 6 seconds? So from a rolling start they are going to be closer then a standing start. I know from a standing start your not going to go close to a GTR.

Maybe he was mucking with me, but I heard him floor it... I've never been in a GTR before and it was just supprising at the speed difference...

But hey they are both only cars right? Still maybe a GTR when I'm old enough to buy one outright :bahaha:

I thought the GTR standard was 207 kilowatts from engine right?

I read in a mag that the real output for a GTR is at least 230kw cos they were comparing it with a US spec Supra which has 239kw (bigger cams, steel wheel turbos etc....)

I've put quite a few lengths (~5) on an R33 GT-R V Spec (exhaust/filters & boost increase) from a 70km/h roll to the top of 3rd, he went first. The driver of the GT-R & I spoke after the run. He was in the same gear as me & didn't stuff up. It was an honest run. Then again I wasn't exactly stock @ that stage.

Matt was that 215, 235 or 257rwkw@ stage?:)

GTR had 2 people in it and I was by myself... Still I think a R33 GTR does 0-100 in maybe 5 seconds and a GTS-t is 6 seconds? So from a rolling start they are going to be closer then a standing start. I know from a standing start your not going to go close to a GTR.  

You said you raced to 160km/hr right?

I'm not saying this cos I have an R but seriously a stock GTR would chomp a light tuned GTST...... forget about the factory released power figures and weight... if all cars could be judged by the statistics explain why Integra Type-R's are so fast around a track with their 'measly' 140 odd kw and their FWD and no brembos in Australia....

anyway it doesn't matter.. what you should do is get a mate with a GTR.... get on a rolling start and see how you go hehe

Originally posted by diduc

Matt was that 215,  235 or 257rwkw@ stage?:)

Ummm.......good question mate? I can't remember if it was the 215 or 235 stage, definitely not 257 as it was a while ago.

Guys,

I don't doubt the GT-R standard power figures are quite a bit higher than quoted (@ least 230+kw) but in all reality it isn't' *that* much grunt considering the weight.

1530kg - R33 non V spec

1540kg - R33 V spec

These figures are dry weight too! Add oils/fuel etc.. & you're up near 1600+kg. Add a driver & that's one heavy car for 230+kw to haul *on a roll*, off the line is a whole other ball game!

R33 GTS25t - 1370kg (5sp) 1390kg (auto) dry weight

My car - 1455kg (over 1/2 tank +10-20kg of stuff in the boot) as weighed on very accurately calibrated weighbridge.

So.........

R33 GTS25t: 1455kg + 80kg driver = 1535kg

R33 GT-R non V spec (lighter): 1530kg + ~50kg fuel, oils etc.. + 80kg driver = 1660kg

1660kg - 1535kg = 125kg & I'd say that would be a conservative estimate.

"Every kg lost is more than a hp gained"

A healthy 180rwkw GTS25t "should" be able to give a *STOCK* R33 GT-R a very good scare *on a roll*.

As an interesting side note Munro on these forums had his R34 V spec weighed not long ago.....1658 kg! Add a driver & that's a porker!!!

*Note* All standard weight figures 100% accurate as per Nissan specs.

Also, both fatz (stock R32 GTR) and I (stock R33 GTS, 9psi boost) found ourselves at the start of the EC straight last time out. Start ~110km/h, finish ~200km/h.

The GTS-T pulled away. Now, I may have started slightly faster thru the corner, but he didn't reel me in...

Seriously, a stock GTR doesn't really put out that much power for its wieght, the great thing about them is how easy they are to improve, not how quick they are stock.

Standing start is a totally different story. Traction always wins...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...