Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is a street meet at AIR on this saturday is anyone going to go for a few runs. I am considering running just to see what i can do.

Does anyone know what time it starts, costs or any special things you need to do to your car.

Hopefully i will have some second hand Bridgestone 540s on GTR rims so i should have some traction.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9476-street-drags-1st-feb/
Share on other sites

Clint,

I'm keen as mate! But due to family commitments (+ it'll be packed) I can't make it :) I probably won't be running for a mth or so :) Hope you get into the 12's!

Cost - $50

Starts - 4pm scrutineering 5pm racing

Need - ADR approved helmet, long sleeve shirt & pants.

Car - Registered & no obvious major faults (any major leaks etc..)

That's about it!

I'm guessing there'll be a HUGE turn out due to the first SM for mths! I'm not keen on huge delays due to heaps of cars, good for the spectators though (I won't even get to watch :)).

Originally posted by morpsi

Advertising it on Fresh FM at the moment. If I remember correctly, $15 to enter and $10 to watch. Gates open about 11am and racing starts at noon.

Dont quote me but tune into 92.7 for more details.

Cheers

Nat

Hmmm.... might have that radio dial just a fraction off 92.7 & didn't get the message 100% (j/k) :)

It's $50 to race & $17 for spectators ($12 concession)

yeah it dosent start till 4pm, this will give me plenty of time to get my car ready in the morning. Im taking off the rear wing, stripping out the seats, making a new exhaust (side pipe) and going to run avgas with some sticky tires im hopefully going to get tomorrow.

fingers crossed a mid 12 is the plan.

Geez Clint, it sounds like you are serious about this drag stuff!!!!!!!

12's should be a doodle, just might take a few go's

might be there to watch, if so i'll catch up with you:burnout:

Munro broke a driveshaft after the first pass i think.

I had 4 runs, but due to a diff that would only spin 1 wheel constantly traction was not there, best time was a 13.6 with unknown mph, but the run before was a 14.0 at 108.5mph so the best pass would heve been 110-111mph so that is definately good for mid 12s. it was my first ever meet so im not to disapointed, and went faster each time but when you have to take it easy off the line and still spin the wheels into 3rd its pretty hopeless. I was also told by a few people that the track was very slippery compared to normal. Keir wilsons GTR did a few passes but had a couple of dramas as well i think, he just smoked the wheels big time off the line as well.

My 60ft time was 2.35 so with a mechanical diff and some better tyres ( i was running nearly bald 540s tyres at 10psi in the end) i will hopefuly run the 12 next time. But at the moment after next weekend there is nothing planed as yet.

A 14.0 @ 108.5mph ( & fairly average 2.35 60) shows the cars potential! Pitty your 13.6 time slip didn't have a mph, would've been 110 @ least.

Lack of traction into 3rd :eek: sure does sound like it was slippery!

Bloody good effort for a first time out mate :uh-huh: Its one thing to have the power to run the #'s but it's a whole other ball game to get that power to the ground & run to full potential!

But hey isn't drag racing in a 5sp manual street tyre road car as easy as flooring the throttle & holding the wheel straight!?! *NOT*

Bummer about John's driveshaft failure :wave: Hopefully it's fixed & ready for next weekend?

yeah i was spewing when the 13.6 run didnt have the mph, i had to launch at about 3k otherwise i dint go anywhere when the turbo dosent make good boost to 4.2 its slow at first but hooks up in the top end.

with only one wheel spining all the time the burnout i got to redline it in 3rd and the car hardly moved, not like the normal sideways action you get.

i ended upjust getting some experience and will have to get the car setup to take the power and get the reaction toime down a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...