Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wouldn't the tiny R33 turbine housing (~.48a/r) end up creating HUGE amounts of back pressure, and resultantly heat when the exhaust gases from an RB25 breathing 19-20psi of boost at high revs is trying to force its way through?

I would just not try to run that kind of power through the RB25 turbine housing.... I wouldn't be surprised if swapping to a VG30 one would make the world of difference.

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah it certainly does make sense. but it is a highflower rb25 housing and they can make 250rwkw on 1.3bar ish. 19psi is around 1.4bar so he should be expecting around 250rwkw i would expect ? but with more lag as the front comp housing is much bigger

Yeah - I wasn't 100% sure on that one, I thought the 250wkw cars were possibly running the VG30 turbine housing. There is definate varience between dynos though, is this reading done on a dyno which reads consistant with other ones which have run 250wkw?

I know this could sound stupid - but were any runs tried at lower boost - such as the 1.3bar mentioned by paul? Maybe exhaust gas temperatures are becoming insane at 1.4bar, the thing might even be able able to match the power level on a slightly lower boost level?

Do you have a decent dump pipe?

What kind of intake/intercooler system are you using? Is there any chance that there could be an air leak somewhere?

NO air leak and my zaust is just a straight pipe out from the turbo with a canon like tip (no cat or anything like that). I am currently running 1.3 bar, what is that in PSI????

I have gotten rid of the knock by fixing a few cells in the ignition map. I think the zaust housing on the turbo is bigger than standard as it has been hi-flowed...

So far the story is that I have about 247rwkw on 1.3 bar with no knock but I cant increase the timming as this will cause knock.

I will put the dyno graph up at lunch time, just need to find a scanner ;)

just thought you might bend a rod running that high of boost.

Good luck anyway, hope its tuned safely.

Yea, cheers mate.

She is running a fairly safe tune, thus lower power figure from expected.

I just though of something else, could it be that my FMIC is at its limits now.

Its a Bar and Plate design and is about 600mm long by 300mm high and about 60mm thick??? It might even be a GTR one but not sure as I bough tit second hand.

How could I check that this is the case, inlet temps??

the most likely answer is no. airflow makes power so look at the air outlet system. what size a/r is the turbocharger? did u try a dyno run with exhaust dropped to see if that made a difference? the gt30 comp is usually fair strong and flows stacks loads and you may find the hiflowed rb25 rear is too small. its good cos it will reduce lag but youll lack in top end, which is what you are seeing as it cant flow enough gas (or it could be spinning out of efficiency)

if you wanna try it check pressure before fmic and then at throttle body

shouldnt be much difference. 600x300 is fairly standard and it should flow ok.

Its not so much the flow but the cooling efficency that I am worried about. At 19 psi the air after turbo compression would be very hot, I though that maybe my cooler is not good enough to get the temps back down.

I did notice that when the car has been sitting in the the sun for awhile the preformance is lacking until I do a few km's to let the FMIC cool down from the heat soak, when at least that's my theory.

"Its not so much the flow but the cooling efficency that I am worried about. At 19 psi the air after turbo compression would be very hot, I though that maybe my cooler is not good enough to get the temps back down."

Nup - this side of things is probably fine. Ive seen this before and im 100% positive that its the turbine housing causing backpressure which is making it overheat.

Id be tapping the exhuast manifold and measuring that pressure in there. With a GT30, anything more than 1.5:1 ratio of backpressure to boost is too high.

Cheers,

Matt

Look at it this way, you're trying to use a 350hp turbine housing on a 600hp turbo. It just aint going to work to its full potential.

OK, so it looks like this is the maxium power that I will get without changing the zaust housing to a VG30 ;)

How much help would an zaust cam be in this situation?

You are correct, however its better to have the turbine housing matched to the application. you can then use a more conservative cam and get a better spread of power.

Using a BIG cam to fix a SMALL turbine housing isnt a good combo. while it will help, you will find that the turbine housing only wants to work well ion the lower half of the rev range, while the longer duration exhaust cam will naturally want to work in the higher rev range.

Its all about the combo :angry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...