Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wouldn't the tiny R33 turbine housing (~.48a/r) end up creating HUGE amounts of back pressure, and resultantly heat when the exhaust gases from an RB25 breathing 19-20psi of boost at high revs is trying to force its way through?

I would just not try to run that kind of power through the RB25 turbine housing.... I wouldn't be surprised if swapping to a VG30 one would make the world of difference.

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah it certainly does make sense. but it is a highflower rb25 housing and they can make 250rwkw on 1.3bar ish. 19psi is around 1.4bar so he should be expecting around 250rwkw i would expect ? but with more lag as the front comp housing is much bigger

Yeah - I wasn't 100% sure on that one, I thought the 250wkw cars were possibly running the VG30 turbine housing. There is definate varience between dynos though, is this reading done on a dyno which reads consistant with other ones which have run 250wkw?

I know this could sound stupid - but were any runs tried at lower boost - such as the 1.3bar mentioned by paul? Maybe exhaust gas temperatures are becoming insane at 1.4bar, the thing might even be able able to match the power level on a slightly lower boost level?

Do you have a decent dump pipe?

What kind of intake/intercooler system are you using? Is there any chance that there could be an air leak somewhere?

NO air leak and my zaust is just a straight pipe out from the turbo with a canon like tip (no cat or anything like that). I am currently running 1.3 bar, what is that in PSI????

I have gotten rid of the knock by fixing a few cells in the ignition map. I think the zaust housing on the turbo is bigger than standard as it has been hi-flowed...

So far the story is that I have about 247rwkw on 1.3 bar with no knock but I cant increase the timming as this will cause knock.

I will put the dyno graph up at lunch time, just need to find a scanner ;)

just thought you might bend a rod running that high of boost.

Good luck anyway, hope its tuned safely.

Yea, cheers mate.

She is running a fairly safe tune, thus lower power figure from expected.

I just though of something else, could it be that my FMIC is at its limits now.

Its a Bar and Plate design and is about 600mm long by 300mm high and about 60mm thick??? It might even be a GTR one but not sure as I bough tit second hand.

How could I check that this is the case, inlet temps??

the most likely answer is no. airflow makes power so look at the air outlet system. what size a/r is the turbocharger? did u try a dyno run with exhaust dropped to see if that made a difference? the gt30 comp is usually fair strong and flows stacks loads and you may find the hiflowed rb25 rear is too small. its good cos it will reduce lag but youll lack in top end, which is what you are seeing as it cant flow enough gas (or it could be spinning out of efficiency)

if you wanna try it check pressure before fmic and then at throttle body

shouldnt be much difference. 600x300 is fairly standard and it should flow ok.

Its not so much the flow but the cooling efficency that I am worried about. At 19 psi the air after turbo compression would be very hot, I though that maybe my cooler is not good enough to get the temps back down.

I did notice that when the car has been sitting in the the sun for awhile the preformance is lacking until I do a few km's to let the FMIC cool down from the heat soak, when at least that's my theory.

"Its not so much the flow but the cooling efficency that I am worried about. At 19 psi the air after turbo compression would be very hot, I though that maybe my cooler is not good enough to get the temps back down."

Nup - this side of things is probably fine. Ive seen this before and im 100% positive that its the turbine housing causing backpressure which is making it overheat.

Id be tapping the exhuast manifold and measuring that pressure in there. With a GT30, anything more than 1.5:1 ratio of backpressure to boost is too high.

Cheers,

Matt

Look at it this way, you're trying to use a 350hp turbine housing on a 600hp turbo. It just aint going to work to its full potential.

OK, so it looks like this is the maxium power that I will get without changing the zaust housing to a VG30 ;)

How much help would an zaust cam be in this situation?

You are correct, however its better to have the turbine housing matched to the application. you can then use a more conservative cam and get a better spread of power.

Using a BIG cam to fix a SMALL turbine housing isnt a good combo. while it will help, you will find that the turbine housing only wants to work well ion the lower half of the rev range, while the longer duration exhaust cam will naturally want to work in the higher rev range.

Its all about the combo :angry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...