Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I had my car at MM a while ago to get the emanage ultimate installed on the r34 GTT auto but they can't get it to work.

I decide to take my car to 101 since they are suppose to be the ECU guys in Brisbane, and they tested my E-ultimate and told me that the unit is dead, because MM didn't set up the jumper correctly (setting for Nissan car) before they hook up everything and turn on the ignition.

So FYI, find out if the workshop really knows what they doing before going ahead. E-Ultimate is pretty much like the emanage blue but with 3 times the information, so its very easy to #$@% up if not careful.

D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94832-emanage-ultimate-is-dead/
Share on other sites

was the unit new when u gave it to the workshop? they should replace it surely as it was their fault it is no longer working, due to bad installation

yeah, bought it from Japan brand new. I guess I will take it back to MM sometime and see what they can do. I doult they will do anything though and they charge me for the installation as well.

I've done endless installs on 34's with e-manage...did you buy the add-on to stop the check engine light from signalling when you install the ignition harness? Also did they place diodes in the igniton lead to limit the trigger voltages?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...868&hl=e-manage

This show's my old e-manage blue, with a field car specific harness...the little black box is what you need to prevent errors with ignition, you can't make out the diodes on the other section.

the jumper setting alone doesn't kill the e-manages....it would take some highly suspect installation to kill one.

I've seen an e-manage appear "dead" purely from incorrect firmware.

Well, I’m not a mechanic so I wouldn't know much about it I was been told it had fried because the jumper was set to Honda Vtec instead of Nissan (don't how they can stuff that up).

The guys at 101 put the emanage blue on my car now and it works fine, so I will leave it as that for now and the E-ultimate will be setting on my desk as a nice shinny chrome souvenir for the time been perhaps give ultimate another crack bit later on down the track, when everyone is running one in their auto. ;)

I was told my E-manage blue was a dud so I sent it back to Japan under warranty and when I got it back, I was told that the software the tuner was using was too old (I actually supplied them with new software and they didn't use it!) and my E-manage needed to be updated with the latest firmware to solve my issues. Cost me $80 to fix something that I could've done myself by updating the latest firmware. All is fine with it now though.

Poor value about the E-manage Ultimate hoo@h, I remember reading about your issues with it and I was feeling the same thing after I was told my E-manage was going to be a paperweight. I don't know how they could've set the jumper for V-Tec engines either as to do this, don't you actually have to alter the jumper settings specifically for this purpose? That is, it wouldn't come set up for this from the factory would it? Have you checked the jumper settings yourself after they told you it was stuffed? It's pretty easy to do. I thought the jumper settings would only kill your E-manage if you set them incorrectly and then tried to run the car a few times. But the unit should've sent back some error messages telling them not all was good, and possibly not even started at all?

"There's very little meat in these gym mats!"

Edited by MacGuyver

yeah MacGyver is right about the firmware, this is the normal cause for the e-manage to shit itself...normally it's the ignition side that will fail to operate...it's fixable though.

hoo@h I'm willing to look at it for you if you like? Just send me the software and the e-manage and I'll see what's doing with it.

For future reference..all firmware updates can be found at www.mohdparts.com

Well, all jumper setting are listed in the user manual, perhaps they thought they had it on Nissan setting.

They did contact 101 and got the latest software, but I guess attempting to tune the car with wrong jumper setting killed it.

Anyway, I think 101 got the car running with emange blue so I am just going to leave it as that for now.

Thanks for the offer 666Dan, you wouldn't happen to be in Brisbane area are you?

This ECU can be used on R34s with Tiptronic transmission?

Can someone list the benefits of this one over say an SAFC2?  I'm currently running one and wouldn't mind looking into an upgrade.

From my minimum mechanical knowledge. :P

I had SAFCII on the 34 auto before, it was pretty good but it only works on air n fuel ratio tuning, with the emanage(latest firmware n software) u can also tune the ignition timing which will give you a bigger gain in power.

Unfortunately PowerFC don't work with the 34 auto, otherwise I would have gone that way.

Yeah I'm in Brisbane...shame the old car got stolen, could have shown you the full set-up when it was in.....it was tiptronic also.

The new one has something a bit better than e-manage now...for half the cost :(

Hey Hoo@h, you said you've gone back to E-manage blue after you couldn't get the Ultimate to work. Just out of curiosity is it possible to use the same harnesses for the E-manage blue for the E-manage Ultimate? Or do you need to buy Ultimate specific harnesses?

"There's very little meat in these gym mats!"

Hey Hoo@h, you said you've gone back to E-manage blue after you couldn't get the Ultimate to work. Just out of curiosity is it possible to use the same harnesses for the E-manage blue for the E-manage Ultimate? Or do you need to buy Ultimate specific harnesses?

"There's very little meat in these gym mats!"

Hmmm not sure. I know if you were upgrading from blue to ultimate u will need to buy additional harness, so I assume it will work perfectly going backwards, just with a few wiring left out.

I haven't actually seen it yet, only talked to the guys at 101 briefly over the phone. I am hoping to pick it up this weekend, if they can sort out the misfiring problem at high boost (one or more coilpacks need replacing I think).

Dan

I hope the guys at 101 realise that if you don't use the diodes and the igniton interface module, you get a the check engine light constantly illuminate on the R34's....it doesn't effect anything, just is annoying to see.

I hope the guys at 101 realise that if you don't use the diodes and the igniton interface module, you get a the check engine light constantly illuminate on the R34's....it doesn't effect anything, just is annoying to see.

Well, got my car back and that's exactly what I got, engine warning light is on, very annoying.

So hard is it to get the warning light back to normal, can you help me out 666dan?

btw, car made about 270 hp with emanage blue, fmic, blitz filter, exhaust and blitz i-color set at 0.9 high boost.

I hope the guys at 101 realise that if you don't use the diodes and the igniton interface module, you get a the check engine light constantly illuminate on the R34's....it doesn't effect anything, just is annoying to see.

kewl. just orded emanage ignition signal adaptor online, so is that all I need to turn those engine check light off? 666dan?

"GReddy e-manage Ignition Signal Adapter #1 - #15900906*

(For Nissan Skyline ER34 & Stagea WGNC34)

When attaching the ignition harness neo-straight 6 cars (ER34, WGNC34, etc), this adapter will prevent the check engine light from turning on.

Attach to each igniter signal on the ECU side, as well as to the ground.

Up to 6CH

D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HyperGear. Just get a high flow of the stocker. Good, reliable, and should bolt on. Yes it will want things like a retune once done, so you need to factor this in to your spend too.
    • Hi. Iam looking for some "cheaper" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO. I do not want "big" power just better reliability than the stock turbo which is "fot now" good but is old and i do not think it has "easy" life. One the Skyline here running some "temu" china Turbo but i dont trust those... Thanks!  
    • Hi guys, Making some space/cleaning up. A whole heap of random OEM R33 GTR parts and other random bits and bobs. I will update this thread as I go. Parts are located in Moorebank NSW 2170. Pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense. Prices are negotiable. If they don’t sell it will go in the bin. Item 1: BOV return pipe. $40 Item 2: RB26 cam gears. $20 Item 3: R33 GTR torque split, oil temp, boost centre gauge. $100 Item 4: RB26 fuel rail x 2. $20 each Item 5: RB26 Recirc valves. $50 Item 6: OEM upper front arms. $20 Item 7: Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-140 1 quart/946 ml x 5. $50 each or 5 for $200. Item 8: OS Giken 80w-250 diff oil 1 litre. $25 Item 9 Eibach springs. ers-11-140-60-0140. $100 https://www.streetfx.com.au/eib140-60-0060-eibach-ers-140mm-length-x-60mm-id-coil-over-spring?_ga_campaignid=22235933977&_ga_adgroupid=180146800292&_ga_keyword=&_ga_device=m&_ga_target=pla-295238231169&_ga_locint=&_ga_locphy=9071723&_ga_matchtype=&_ga_network=g&_ga_device=m&_ga_placement=&_gcl_id=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22235933977&gbraid=0AAAAADPiTbo1xAuvnjIWWYnezivf-BUSY&gclid=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE    
    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
×
×
  • Create New...