Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

take out the spare wheel, rip out the plastic covering, fibreglass 1 sub in each corner of boot, make up a amp rack in the middle, done :D.

I have designs for a 12" side install sealed sub box too.

it can b done if u know what your doin, if any of u guys went 2 autosalon final battle 04 there was a silver r33 with full jl audio install 2x 12'' subs in the corners and 2 amps down the centre all fibreglassed and sprayed in r34 blue. this r33 is my own car and ill try get some pics up 4 u guys

why 1 sub per amp?

2 subs per amp better... lower impedance more crunk foe ya system...

use 2 x 2ohm subs (Assuming they are Dual Voice Coils), run your monoblock at 1ohm.. a good 1kw RMS of power... considering the monoblock does 1 ohm stable...

thats more power than 2 subs running off 2 amps

it can b done if u know what your doin, if any of u guys went 2 autosalon final battle 04 there was a silver r33 with full jl audio install 2x 12'' subs in the corners and 2 amps down the centre all fibreglassed and sprayed in r34 blue. this r33 is my own car and ill try get some pics up 4 u guys

Please do

it has a normal size one, like u would find in the engine bay of an commodore for example, also with rca'z what length is reccomended, i was thinking something about 12ft/4m is this right???

im running 4 gauge wiring into a distro block then thats going to each amp 1 monoblock and 1 4ch

system is 2 audiobahn 12z, kenwood 9152d monoblock, clarion 4ch, alpine type s splits for front and rear, and a pioneer audiovisual headunit

thanks

You can fit 'em in, but I would recomend to dump em for some 6.5 or whatever the factory size is as 6x9's are a good comprimise for getting bass without wanting a sub. You have 2 subs so I wouldn't worry about trying to fit 6x9's. If you do however you may need to bend/cut the parcel tray, which I definatley wouldn't recomend.

I'd runn 4g for each amp to a distro block, then 2 or 1g to the battery. Looks like you'll be getting some juice going into your system. Don't forget to fuse it correctly as close to the battery as possible.

ok, yeah ill prob go get a length of it and do that, as my amps are gonna be sitting on the sides of the boot

after spending a few hours working out measurements and all that stuff for my sub boxes, ive marked out everything in my boot, im gonna be making my sub boxes up next week as im going for my ps on monday so i wanna practice as much as possible

ill post pics up once the boot is carpeted

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...