Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yo, just hoping to get some opinions/advice about the microtech ecu's on RB20/25 engines (especially the LTX12 series) as it seems hard to get any info here in NZ & i see a lot of the Aussie guys are running them.

If you are running one what are your thoughts on it? what are they like at driving big injectors (550cc on an RB20) do they have closed loop & does it equal the factory's system? are they easy to tune?

& i heard the LTX12 can be purchased with an adaptor loom to plug into an R32 RB20DET loom, does anyone know if this is true?

Cheers, appreciate all your feedback. good or bad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95401-micotech-ecu-on-rb-series-engines/
Share on other sites

I wouldnt say  "a lot fo aussie guys"

I only know of one person with a sky using a microtech

What does your tuner over there prefer?

Hmm i thought the 2 most common ecu's for skylines in OZ were Microtech & power FC?

Tuner is trying to sway me to just get the standard ecu chipped but i am possibly looking at adding other things later on so an aftermarket management system is looking like the only option. & the only two that are in my price range are Microtech LTX12 & power FC but i have had an extremly hard time trying to get hold of the RB20 type so it is almost out of the question.\

Your thoughts on the microtech?

Microtech's are built to a price they do fuel and timing and thats about it. The LTX12 has a few extra options idle control and an addtional output its all on the website I think. You only need to take a look at timing control in a static conditon to apprciate how shit the timing control is. As for idle control actually not to bad considering. Closed loop - kiss that good bye.

The biggest problem is the variation of MAP signal - you can use a pill to damp this off but in the end its still shit. I am bias because the main aim of where I work is tuning standard ECU's but we also tune microtech, xede, PFC, haltech , motec and autronic. You will actually gain more torque across the board with the standard ECU as it has better timing control. ie the standard ECU is 1deg sensitive as is PFC whereas a microtech is about 3deg sensitive. You just cant go past the PFC or Chip IMO. (Hmmm prepare for the flamming)

If your tuner wants to go with a chip go down that road and get it retune later chances are there wont be that much to do.

Microtech is ok, im running one in mine (LT8) it does just enough of what i need, albeit no Cold start IAA etc... but still starts fine.

if i had my way again and had the cash i would definatelly go with a PFC, enough said....

nothing wrong with a Dribbletech.

they all have pretty good resolution with the 3dtuning software. and they can be configured to read all of the factory sensors.

im not sur about closed loop.

at the end of the day it comes down to how well its tuned. fullstop.

microtech web site

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...