Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll dig out my old dyno sheet for you tonight, it doesn't have boost on it unfortunately, can't remember if it was running 12 or 14psi at the time and made 174 or so rwkw. It was all in by 4200 or so on mine.

It's also pretty obvious where the power starts on the graph as mine has the straight line followed by the big hump aswell.

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Champ hyper drive are very good and you might get mor but it sounds to me like a safe tune

I have an auto r33 and found at lower boost i made more rwkw at190 @ 10 psi with a very healthy power band

james

hm.. 50degree IT... gonna be some reasonable correction there for sure so it'll be even a lower figure realistically speaking.

for a gcg hi-flo/17psi on rb20 now me thinking it should be a bit more when you think that 15psi on a rb25 nets you around the 250rwkw

The RB20DET needs BOOST! :)

I went from the rb20det making 164rwkw on 15psi to the rb30det making 176rwkw on 9psi.

Engine size doesn't affect power, head and turbo airflow is what makes power.

Push 18psi in to it and it will crack your 200rwkw goal.

Speak to Chris32 what he thinks of his old Remapped ECU done by Martin Donnon compared to the PFC he now runs.

If I remember correctly he said the mid range power increased quite a bit with the pfc.

With regards to boost tailing off... This will aways occur with a manual boost controller to some extent, a cheapish option is to head down to your local turbo rebuilder and pick up a new wastegate actuator, down in Adelaide ATS sell an adjustable actuator for ~$120. You can select the preset also, from memory its something like 8psi, 12psi, 14psi, 17psi etc.

Where did u end up mounting the resistor pack?

The joys of trouble shooting a car that isn't quite performing the way you want it to. :O

Sorry I have to ask... Does it actually make any boost in first? Being an auto would have an advantage as it will spool a little earlier.

Edited by Cubes

yeah does get boost in first, sometimes it shoots to like 1.7 bar for a millisecond which is kinda odd. Spins a bit at the end of first gear.

Installed resistor near the brake mastercylinder. Right in the corner of the engine bay. That should be ok yeah?

I can't just put 18psi in it can i? its only one of those 22$ boost controler maybe it would help with a better controler. I dono anywhere in perth that could sell actuators may have a look around.

Yeah Millar the Hoon they do a good job I have heard only good things and my car does run nice and is faster just thought i should be getting a bit more hp than it is.

4doorsleeper runs a new gen GCG highflow on his RB25DET AUTO, that made 220rwkw on I 'think' 14psi.

So say... 20psi.. Might get you close to that.. Maybe depends if you run in to detonation problems. BUT then you need to start looking at engine reliability.

Resistor location will be fine, up against the master cyl is a little better than above the turbo dump :)

Hows fuel economy with the GTR injectors?

Edited by Cubes

yeah fuel economy doesn't seems to bad but i haven't been driving it much only just got tune and been give it a bit of shit just to see wats its like a bit.

Ill need another tune if i want to run 20psi though won't I?

do you think maybe my dump pipe cause cause problems its just a open dump pipe no splitters.

Haha is yours near your exhaust? oh yeah wat you think about heat wraping cooler pipes cause they get prity hot. (the onethat goes past the fan.

tune already cost me 800 and the guy recons it made no difference when he put 18psi into it so it isn't worth doing really i supose. It is a safe tune atm so probly best to keep it safe.

May just get a shift kit and leave it at that, not worth throwing an more money into the car since its auto, and any other upgrade turbo would just cost too much

Do you have a boost gauge + do you service your car much + how long have you had it + can you use cam gears to boost earler

Autos are choice 4 every day car and shift kit should make a difference

i wounder about the condition of your engine and gearbox

but remember hp is not everything you also need driverbility aswell

James

Ahh well.. Thought about reselling the turbo?

Drop on a R34 (choice) or R33 Turbo and make approx the same power on less boost with less lag?

But it really depends if your figure is reading a little low or not as to whether the r34/r33 turbo would make the same power.

yeah brought the car stock a few months ago probaly about 6 months or something. Service it often do all the work myself, yeah have a defi boostgauge. I dono why i would get r33 turbo or r33 doubt that would help. Hyperdrive dyno isn't one of those dyno's that read high so it would be an acurate reading.

I have changed the gearbox oil but have not yet changed the filter as gona do that when i do the shift kit. Still have not yet decided on shift kit or not yet.

Well I have similar modded r32 auto to yours anton, except no GTR injectors (have a nismo FPR to up the ante on the injectors a little).. but a highflow rb25 turbo (not gcg i dont think)

I'm only running 12psi at the moment and a bit of a self tune on the SAFC but it doesn't seem too much throw you in your seat.. and I estimate only around 140-50rwkw at the moment.

In about 2 weeks I am getting mine tuned.. but realistically I think i'll be lucky to get 180-190rwkw @ 16psi. The same turbo made 230rwkw @ 16psi on gtrgeoff's old rb25. I'll let you know how it goes, but I just don't think the RB25 highflow on rb20 is a great match.

Edited by predator2

was that geoffs guy auto? keep me posted on what you get.

I also find that at the end of the revrange when it should change gear is sorts backfires and i tihnk its hitting the limiter and take a little while to change. Is this just the auto not being able to keep up? and wil a shif tkit help

Here you go, same turbo, different rb20

running 12psi, i remember now because i still had the stock injectors in it at this stage which is why the a/f ratio starts climbing at 6k, i added a couple of extra psi after i put 550's in.

post-2863-1132642989.jpg

Yeah, manual gearbox.

I had an HKS adjustable, but i can't see that being the whole of the problem. It was holding a consistant 12psi right through to the end of the run.

This was on the stock ecu aswell, i got an emanage later on to run the 550's.

I can't see the gearbox causing a difference of 500rpm in response, though it would effect overall power. What sort of exhaust? what size/and type of cat/ and how old is the cat? Have you tried dropping the exhaust by any chance?

the exhaust is 3inch no cat, no spliter in the dump pipe, and has 2 muffler although the rear muffler is pritty much useless as its bigger than 3inch so wouldn't be doing much. Maybe the dump pipe is a problem? or the other muffler in the middle of the car

The back fires are the fuel cut they are pops arnt they

that is y i turned my boost down to get FULL throtal and a much better power band

i have an eboost2 and i can use it very well

so i turned they boost down and the computer can handle the boost now

thus a good power band + a couple more hp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...