Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How the hell do you install the front swaybar on a R33 GTST??

Ive got some whiteline non-adjustable swaybars and was attempting to install them today.

The rear went on without any dramas but when I got to the front.....

I removed the plastic stonegaurd thingy and checked all the bolts securing the front swaybar.

There is 2 bolts that cant be accessed as there is another part in the way (sorry, dont know the name of it?)

I tried removing the part in the way but the bolts are on pretty good and I didnt want to bugger them by trying to force them.

thought I better ask the 'experts' first (you guys)

Heres some crappy pics:

The bolt is circled:

swaybar%20002.jpg

The part in the way is circled:

swaybar%20001.jpg

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95921-front-swaybar-install/
Share on other sites

This is the "how to" I wrote on fitting a front stabiliser bar to a Stagea, I think it answers your questions;

The front looks a little trickier than the rear but it isn't, you just have to remove the undetray first. It has lots of bolts around the front and down the sides, 12 of them I think (10mm socket);

StdFrontUndertraycopy.jpg

Then you need to undo the std links, only where they attach to the bar as the Whiteline bar uses the standard links (14mm ring and 14 mm open ended spanner);

StdFrontBarLinkscopy.jpg

StdFrontBarLinksSpannerscopy.jpg

Once you have undone the links, then its time for the D brackets, there is a bolt at the front (14mm socket);

StdFrontBarDBracketBoltcopy.jpg

And you get at the nut at the rear (14 mm socket and medium extension), it is a bit hidden up above the radius rod bush;

StdFrontBarSBracketNutcopy.jpg

This is comparison of the bars, note the links are still on the Stagea

WhitelineFrontBarcopy.jpg

Once again you simply reverse the process for fitting the Whiteline bar, this one I put on the highest rate (hole furthest in on the arm). Don't forget to grease inside the polyurethane D bushes, they touch metal as well.

WhitelineFrontBarinPlacecopy.jpg

Put the undertray back on and you are finished.

Hope that helps

:D cheers :(

  Sydneykid said:
This is the "how to" I wrote on fitting a front stabiliser bar to a Stagea, I think it answers your questions;

And you get at the nut at the rear (14 mm socket and medium extension), it is a bit hidden up above the radius rod bush;

StdFrontBarSBracketNutcopy.jpg

Hope that helps

:P cheers :D

Thanks Gary. I checked your thread out when attempting the install but the nuts are a bastard to get to.

Im going to a mates this afternoon as he's got better tools.

Should get it done.

Cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Like I said, "black magic" LOL In the end,  it is what it is, and hopefully, what this here knuckle head has done is an improvement and not a hindrance Not that I actually notice any negatives now, or that I will get any seat of the pants benefits when all is said and done, but best practice says I shouldn't be pulling intake air from the hot engine bay  Famous last words: I cannot see it being any worse than what it is at the moment 馃
    • If the gases flowing in those two tracts had the same properties, you could maybe use such broscience. But the exhaust has a different composition, different normal density, different actual density (because of different normal density, and mostly because of the massively higher temperature), and different viscosity (again because of much higher temperature). Consequently, all of the fluid dynamics parameters that matter, that you calculate from these inputs, such as the Reynolds number, friction factors (for wall friction) and so on, are all incomparable.
    • And we shall have to presume that Canada is the same?
    • In the US almost everything is E10. It can't exceed 10% by much or fuel systems have trouble adapting. At the same time because MTBE, MMT, and TEL are all banned they need as much ethanol in it as possible to boost octane.
    • I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves. So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point: More Hot Air > Less Cold Air I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.
  • Create New...