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I'd wager this has been covered before but searching is bringing up heaps of shit results.

Curious to know if anyone has used an R34 GT-T Turbo on their Series II 33. What are the main differences between the two and what boost level is the 34 Turbo good for (comparitive to the 33 unit).

Thanks!

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yeah its the same size as the vg30 housing but its a plastic / nylon exhaust wheel so 10psi ish will kill vs r33's 12psi. however it probably make the same power if not a tiny bit more at 10psi anyway. less boost is always better

So R34 has a plastic/nylon exhaust wheel!! WTF! And you're saying R33 turbo is good for 12psi? I was hoping for a 10psi hi boost setting after I've got my other mods.

Car is stock at the moment (only had it for 8-9 weeks) and mods will include POD with carbon fiber heat shield(shield is already on the way)

Full 3inch exhaust, going for custom dump and front pipe with HPC coating, prolly a Greddy Power Extreme style Cat back Exhaust to finish it off.

Apexi SAFC and a dual stage boost controller with a high setting of 10psi.

My aim for the car is an absolute max of 200rwkw's as I want it to retain it's stock turbo and bottom end. Will replace the cooler with a GTR front mount of possibly ARC style factory mount option if required. Is this power figure achievable or will I need a fuel pump/fuel reg as well as the above?

So the R34 Turbo is a consideration if the above won't achieve that!

Cheers!

When I had 200rwkW with my 1997 R33 s2 I had a full exhaust, front mount intercooler, walbro fuel pump, sard fuel pressure regulator, ebc, and an Apexi Power FC.

I had to run 14psi on the stock turbo to get that. Ran that for a year with no issues. I still have the old turbo in the garage, and there's very little shaft play, so it's still good.

Engine compression check was done recently too, 145psi on all cylinders except 6 which was 143psi (which is normal).

You won't get 200rwkW with an SAFC and 10psi.

dynoGT30rPSIoverlayed_on_20.jpg

My 200rwkW graph is in red. Boost controller used is a Greddy Profec B spec 2. Note how quickly it brought full boost on, and how flat it held it. This was a very light tune too. Ben from UAS believed he could get ~10rwkW more in the top end if he increased the timing. But then the engine would be being pushed more than I wanted it to.

agreed you wont make 200 with those mods at 10psi

12psi is on border line of r33 turbo failure. for some it works for months, years for some it will last like two weeks, depends on many things, including the tune as well. more boost doesnt always mean more power, but it does mean more heat thats for sure and heat is the killer, this is what "kills" the turbo

youll need a fuel pump to get around 190rwkw as the stocker will lean out a little. dont run dual stage boost. just run the safest and highest you are happy with and tune around that. dont bother having a "trigger switch" or high/low setting. use the accel pedal as your "power controller"

When I was running 14psi on my stock turbo I also wasn't always flooring it everywhere.... So it was @ 14psi maybe 60% of the time. Remember your right foot is a good boost controller.

I gave it a squirt more often than not though :P.

yeah same here, bugger this hi/low "hey bro ive got a button to run 16psi boost" why bother seriously. just run the highest your car is safe with. but yeah as wil said it may be ok to run a higher pressure and only use it for short periouds but extended may fry it. again it depends on lots of things, theres no exact "psi = dead" limit but we have found around 12psi is the killer pressure amount

Hmm, ok so from what I read people are leaning towards HKS GT2530's for this kind of power, in addition to all the mods I mentioned and around 12-16psi depending on various things etc etc.

This sound right?

Well comparing prices between a GT2530 and a PowerFC, isn't the turbo the cheaper option or do I have my turbo prices out of wack? Then again If i get power FC instead of SAFC that saves 400 or so on the SAFC.... hmmm

powerfc - 1K

turbo upgrade

1500 for turbo

few hundred for new afm

1k for powerfc

few hundred for a new fuel pump and regulator

i reckon the powerfc would b alot more viable option unless u have a few grand to throw away

I was considering the R34GTT turbo also. I have the GTT cooler, and I guess that's something you'll have to look at upgrading sooner or later. The R33's have a smaller core cooler that will restrict how much boost you can run, although 10psi sounds like a good safety point.

My aim is also 200rwkw with as little modification as possible, and without making it look modified.

I have been told by forum members that the series2 turbo has the nylon compressor wheel, and it is also ball-bearing... so the only thing the R34GTT's turbo has over ours is the turbo housing size.

the powerfc should be thought of just as "max rwkw gain" which is basically what the turbo is. flow more air at top end by safely running more boost. the powerfc on the stock turbo once fully tuned is a massive difference over the stock ecu. ihmo

stock ecu + hks2530

powerfc + stock turbo

the powerfc will be nicer to drive, smoother and probably make a better power curve, average power.i would prefer the powerfc over a larger turbo

Seems the power FC is the way to go then, and I can still keep my stock turbo which will be nice. So with the PFC and the rest of the mods, what boost would be needed, could it be tuned for 10 and come close? I'd dont really want more than 10 on the stock unit if 12 seems to be the limit. I'm after reliable power after all.

To get 200rwkW on my s2 R33 I needed

1. Power FC

2. Front mount intercooler

3. Boost controller -> 14psi

4. Full exhaust

5. higher flowing fuel pump

6. Sard FPR

This was with the stock turbo. Which is now sitting in the garage and is fine. Little to no shaft play.

Prior to this I was running 11psi, and everything except the powerfc, new pump, and fpr. Without the powerfc these were my experiences with just extra boost, front mount and full exhaust:

1. The car had a massive flat spot due to the stock computer giving the car too much fuel.

2. It only made 184rwkW.

3. Power down low in the rev range was not affected. ie. It didn't feel any faster at 3000rpm.

4. Around tight corners the car was a bitch to drive because the car would fall into the 3000-4000rpm rev range, right where the stock computer would rich and retard (ie. dip in power). After this the car would then regain power. It felt like shit.

As soon as I got the powerfc, fuel pump, and fpr the car was totally different to drive.

Extra power EVERYWHERE. The dip at 3000-4000rpm was also gone. Everyday driving felt better as the car would respond so much quicker.

With the powerfc you'll gain ~20-30rwkW throughout the whole rev range.

The only reason I needed the fuel pump and the fpr to make the 200rwkW is because the car was leaning out at the top end due to the stock injectors not being up to the task for 200rwkW. Prior to the FPR I needed to run the injectors at 95% (not good), after increasing the pressure with the fpr I could run the injectors at 80%.

If you're only going to run 10psi you won't need the FPR (might need a new fuel pump though depending on how your current one is holding up). You'll get maybe high 180rwkW. Not 200. But you'll feel the difference. It'll be like a totally new car to drive :)

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