Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i want to replace my standard turbo on my rb20 but i want one that spools up pretty early. i know most people go for big turbos for big power. i just one that will be very responsive. is that unrealistic or is lag the nature of turbos.? ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96297-which-turbo-for-rb20det/
Share on other sites

it is standard apart from boost controller, turbo back exhaust. i have heard power fc will make it more responsive backed up with a bigger fuel pump and injectors. intercooling ive heard helps too? as far as the exhaust housing goes i havent a clue which is proper or not is there any way i can tell without taking off the turbo?

Two good turbos that will get you a good amount more power with out affecting response too much are:

RB25 turbo (non-neo because they are weak turbos using epoxy plastics for the compressor wheel which are known to fly apart when pushed).

VG30 roller bearing turbo which are a bit rare to find in good condition.

They are both ceramic exh. wheeled which plays a big part in quick spooling up times.

Steel exh. wheels are heavier and take more time to get spooling escpecially when the wheels are bigger, inturn creating more lag.

It all depends what you want at the end of the day really

response over power or

power over response

a remap will give you a good comprimise. do you have a fmci or the standard intercooler still ? larger injectors wont help the spool up or fuel pump, as long as you aren't leaning out of course.

the VG30 turbo are LAGGY for Rb20, do a search

RB25 turbo is a good budget upgrade

HKS GT2510 / 2530 will be my pick for around $1500

remeber to prepare a budget for the support gear (fuel, cooling) and tuning

Edited by Maxx

VG30's are in no way laggy on an RB20 id know coz im running one. Making 180rwkw with boost from 2500-redline. Great little ball bearing turbo. But im in the same boat and wanting more. Apparantly TD05-16G's or 18G's are the way to go for a fair amount of power to lag ratio. 230-260rwkw with good response (Kelly McKinnon runs one). And the HKS 25-30's are a good mix with minimal lag for power giving around 230 as well.

VG30DET BB turbo's are indeed laggy POS.

I've had one on my rb20det, it made 1bar a shade over 4000rpm under general driving conditions, first gear was quite sloooooow and lazy. I pulled it off and put back on the stock turbo and pushed boost up to 1bar, the stock turbo has a much fatter mid range, sure it won't pull hard to 7500rpm but it did pull hard to 7000rpm with a good ebc so that the little turbo will hold boost. Holding boost is the key to having good top end with the rb20det turbo.

The VG30DET BB turbo is simply a glorified RB20DET turbo.. It runs the exact same compressor and turbine wheel as the rb20det.

So in thoery and practice you can grab a rb20det turbo, drop on the vg30det comp cover and turbine housing and whamo you have a vg30det turbo.

Put it this way... Rb25DET turbo R32 vs VG30DET turbo R32..

The RB25DET turbo R32 will rip the Vg30det's a new bum hole, much more mid range.

The R34 turbo runs the larger vg30det turbo turbine housing.

The R34 turbo is the pick of the bunch and will make more power than all of the other turbo's under it.

The Vg30DET turbo can be considered as favouring exhaust flow, not what a little 2ltr needs. Sure it works really well on a 3ltr and drops the power band in just the right spot but on a 2ltr it is slow.

PEAK POWER IS NOT EVERYTHING. :)

no FMIC at this stage, just standard. speaking of intercoolers that is next on my list, i have seen ones from $700 to about $1800. the cheap ones drop alot of boost about 5-8psi( so i have been told) and the internal fins are chunky(inefficient). i went to ASE and saw one with micro fins and no big blocked sections in the core. i was told a boost drop of 2-3psi would be expected and alot more cooling than the cheaper alternative. it is alot of money to fork out, is it realy worth it? i am not planning on making mega hosepower anyway. there is a hybrid kit r32/r33 at autoban for about $600 and it is a decent size looking unit. feedback???? <_<

I've been in a R32 GT2510, R32 with a RB25 turbo and my own R32 when it was running a VG30 turbo.

The RB25 turbo spooled a little quicker and felt as if it came on smoother than the GT2510.

The GT2510 went well and went hard once on boost.

The VG30 turbo sucked compared to the others.

Edited by Cubes

Dude ive been drifting my VG30 and ive got nothing but praise for the little unit - i think the sppol up is great and not too laggy at all, but i might get either a fuel cut and reg and get a 2530 or i might fork out and grab a powerfc and larger injectors with a 2530 - unless i can manage to find an R34 turbo - but im hell happy with VG30 its got great response and is wicked for drift on 1bar

I do hate the VG30DET turbo on a 2ltr.. On a 3ltr it works nice.

The 2ltr simply does not need the larger turbine housing when paired up with the small compressor wheel it runs, sure it works but it produces the same lag as what a GT2530 or GT2510 produces yet it doesn't deliver the goods.

The larger turbine is required on the larger motor as you don't want peak power being made at 4000rpm. :O

Drop a RB25DET turbo on Nathan and you will drift better. :O

Edited by Cubes
Get a Garrett GT17.

/Thread

wasnt the GT17 off a SAAB. i read somewhere they are pretty small, and not much of

an upgrade and can only run on low boost. i think i will consider the 2530 see if i can

pick one up cheap 2nd somewhere. ive only heard good things about it. thanks guys :O

i was down Asian Autospares (just near Moss st) and he had an rb25neo turbine there. he wanted $750 for it (without water/oil lines, but he says i can use the rb20 ones?). i thought thats a bit expensive, but, whats your opinion? it actually looked rather bigger then th rb20 turbos he had down there..

shaun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...