Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I had a hole-blocked & squashed stock BOV on my R33 and it was a pain in the arse. Boost did come on nicely and it did flutter a bit on low RPM let off but it was so jerky in throttle transition i had to take it off and replace it with another stocker.

If anyone wants it to play with PM me its yours.

Edited by Yeedogga
  • 1 year later...

So whats the final verdict on this? we shouldn't do it because if you do the valve only opens partly? does the boost performance outweigh this con? any proof in the boost performance?

If you think of it as an externally piloted relief valve (if you've done hydraulics this will make sense) then it shouldn't matter if that port is blocked off. There is going to be say 10psi acting on the valve from the bottom (IC pipe boost) and 10psi acting on the top (from manifold to topof BOV) and spring tension at top as well

So the way I see it the vacuum line is the external pilot and when you close the throttle body you will have a negative pressure on the top of the BOV and 10psi at the bottom overcoming spring tension

The little hole shouldn't theoretically make much of a difference to this aspect (the BOV acting as a relief valve when throttle body is closed) at all. Really all that little hole is Doing is drawing air back to the intake which is always under vacuum, which I guess could help raise the valve by adding a negative pressure between the valve seat and internals of the BOV (if that makes sense) perhaps this just speeds up response in the quick moment between positive and negative manifold pressures. Drawings would make this easier lol

Edited by 89CAL

i can't remember, does the plumb back enter before or after the compressor?

if its after then the pressure in the plumb back pipe would be the same as the boost pressure, and therefore it wouldn't be 'leaking' air at all, just simply acting as an equalizers, and when the throttle plate closes that column of rushing air bounces off it, hits the diaphragm of the bov, overcomes the spring tension, thus opening and giving that pressure wave an alternate route. (other than directly back through the intercooler and back at the turbo compressor)

if the plumb back pipe feeds in before the compressor, then i would imagine there could possibly be a significant boost leak because there would be a large vacuum created before the turbo compressor and it would be effectively sucking the air from the bov pipeline, this low pressure created in the bov plumb back pipeline coupled with the high boost pressure in the crossover bar would accentuate the 'leak' (its not really a leak cuz it goes straight back into the turbo again).

thus the air is constantly doing a giant loop an your losing turbo efficiency.

whether or not the 'leak' is really significant or not i have no idea, i suppose it would be good if we saw a dyno chart, where the suggested mod is the only variable.

edit: imagine a mythbusters style for cars where they check shit like this out, i'd watch it.

Edited by karma_syke

bov return enters in the intake pipe (rubber ribbed hose on standard skyline setup)

This vacuum acts to pull the valve up but also pull it down (in the chamber I'm not sure if theres any effective area on the top side of the valve that it can effectivly pull down)

If this is the case then both pressures would basically cancel each other out, depending on surface area etc.

If not then I guess the spring is in place to compensate this, the small hole I dont think would leak enough pressure through to make a difference for this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...