Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I had a hole-blocked & squashed stock BOV on my R33 and it was a pain in the arse. Boost did come on nicely and it did flutter a bit on low RPM let off but it was so jerky in throttle transition i had to take it off and replace it with another stocker.

If anyone wants it to play with PM me its yours.

Edited by Yeedogga
  • 1 year later...

So whats the final verdict on this? we shouldn't do it because if you do the valve only opens partly? does the boost performance outweigh this con? any proof in the boost performance?

If you think of it as an externally piloted relief valve (if you've done hydraulics this will make sense) then it shouldn't matter if that port is blocked off. There is going to be say 10psi acting on the valve from the bottom (IC pipe boost) and 10psi acting on the top (from manifold to topof BOV) and spring tension at top as well

So the way I see it the vacuum line is the external pilot and when you close the throttle body you will have a negative pressure on the top of the BOV and 10psi at the bottom overcoming spring tension

The little hole shouldn't theoretically make much of a difference to this aspect (the BOV acting as a relief valve when throttle body is closed) at all. Really all that little hole is Doing is drawing air back to the intake which is always under vacuum, which I guess could help raise the valve by adding a negative pressure between the valve seat and internals of the BOV (if that makes sense) perhaps this just speeds up response in the quick moment between positive and negative manifold pressures. Drawings would make this easier lol

Edited by 89CAL

i can't remember, does the plumb back enter before or after the compressor?

if its after then the pressure in the plumb back pipe would be the same as the boost pressure, and therefore it wouldn't be 'leaking' air at all, just simply acting as an equalizers, and when the throttle plate closes that column of rushing air bounces off it, hits the diaphragm of the bov, overcomes the spring tension, thus opening and giving that pressure wave an alternate route. (other than directly back through the intercooler and back at the turbo compressor)

if the plumb back pipe feeds in before the compressor, then i would imagine there could possibly be a significant boost leak because there would be a large vacuum created before the turbo compressor and it would be effectively sucking the air from the bov pipeline, this low pressure created in the bov plumb back pipeline coupled with the high boost pressure in the crossover bar would accentuate the 'leak' (its not really a leak cuz it goes straight back into the turbo again).

thus the air is constantly doing a giant loop an your losing turbo efficiency.

whether or not the 'leak' is really significant or not i have no idea, i suppose it would be good if we saw a dyno chart, where the suggested mod is the only variable.

edit: imagine a mythbusters style for cars where they check shit like this out, i'd watch it.

Edited by karma_syke

bov return enters in the intake pipe (rubber ribbed hose on standard skyline setup)

This vacuum acts to pull the valve up but also pull it down (in the chamber I'm not sure if theres any effective area on the top side of the valve that it can effectivly pull down)

If this is the case then both pressures would basically cancel each other out, depending on surface area etc.

If not then I guess the spring is in place to compensate this, the small hole I dont think would leak enough pressure through to make a difference for this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few suggestions: Do you have the option of retarding your exhaust cam gear to bring the power band over to the left? VCT would be turned off after you make peak torque, you see the power/torque will decay faster with it left on all the way to the limiter Once VCT is turned off, you'll find the motor will take a bit more timing being ramped in Send its mum, more boost! Of course, depends on your exhaust pressure.
    • Tow a boat... people won't know wtf is going on 🤣 
    • I was back on the dyno again yesterday after completely revamping my methanol injection system. I was making 440kw at 19psi. Great, this is more then I was making last summer with my old meth system at that pressure, and I figured it would be smooth sailing up to 30+psi. We continued increasing from there and by 25psi, I had only hit 455kw. Dyno sadly lost utility power at this point and I left. We seemed to be on course to hit the same power wall as last summer (477kw@27psi). This is a built RB25 S1 stroked to a 2.8. Built and ported head with Kelford 272/262 cams. Precision 6466 Turbo. Tuner last year believed the power wall is a mix of RPM limitations (Hydro lifters/Limit set at 7600RPM) and fueling. With my new meth system, we're seeing zero knock now but it still won't go up.  What else can I do at this point? Here's my train of thought.  - It's clear from the dyno graph that I would easily make power to 8500+RPM but I'm limited to 7600RPM. I could risk increasing my limiter, but hydro lifters have me worried. What are my options here besides going NEO head or solid lifter conversion? I'm rocking a 1.05AR turbine on my 6466. Would dropping down to a .84 help shift that power down in anyway? - We're only seeing roughly a 30kw difference at the top end with VCT on or off. Is this normal? I want to confirm VCT is working properly. - Should I look into other cam options?  - Should I just keep increasing boost and see if she wakes up later on? I would expect to hit 600rwkw around 35psi with my 6466.   
    • First thought is to use a ram mount (to hold the ipad) + windscreen suction mount. The arms on the ram mount can be as long as you like, should be able to position the ipad pretty well with that setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...