Jump to content
SAU Community

Other Japan Residents Give Me Some Info


Recommended Posts

recently ive been thinking about purchasing a car and bringing it back as a private import.. went looking at some today ...

what i want to know are the approx costs involved on top of the purchase price.

eg:stamp duty, syaken, insurance .... etc etc. ive never really looked into buying a car while I have been over here but since doing some online car insurance quotes from AUS it would be silly for me not to....

I know other guys own cars here in Japan if you guys could please give me some/all the info i need. other wise I will have to go and speak to the guys around the corner. :):D

thanks

why do you want to import your car, can't you get the same car in AUS?

I knew a guy who imported his car from South Africa to.... well, I forgot where exactly nonetheless, it will be expensive, about 300,000 yen for a cheap container, plus import tarrifs, taxes and the lot. In addition to all the hasstle re-registering it in AUS. It gets very expensive with island countries I think :)

why do you want to import your car, can't you get the same car in AUS?

I knew a guy who imported his car from South Africa to.... well, I forgot where exactly nonetheless, it will be expensive, about 300,000 yen for a cheap container, plus import tarrifs, taxes and the lot. In addition to all the hasstle re-registering it in AUS. It gets very expensive with island countries I think :)

The import part into Australia is pretty straight forward. Most guys who stay in japan for over a year, buy a car in Japan that you can't otherwise buy in australia (like a Legnum VR4, Altezza wagon etc), or is highly modified.

I think what akeenan's primary concern right now isn't to import the car into Australia, but the costs of buying and owning a car and registering it in Japan.

interestingly enough, a big portion of insurance and registration depends on engine displacement. K-car's you can pay a little over 100,000 for everything, and for the big fella's (the extreme opposite)anywhere between 300,000 to 400,000 (in the extreme case) give or take some.

edit: forgot to add; usually cars will be a lot cheaper if the shakken is up, but if there is still a year or so left on it, its reflected in the price. So you end up paying more or less the same price reguardless. (unless there is mechnical or cosmetic issues in which you might get a better deal), in summary its cheap to buy a car, however expensive to maintain it.

Edited by R32Ninja

expensive to maintain a car? i don't think so, but that depends what you think falls under the 'maintenance banner'.

The first thing you need to know is that the sticker price you see on the windscreen isn't the 'real' price - that price will be listed elsewhere, hopefully on a sheet inside the car. There's usually quite a difference between these prices - so be careful. Extra fees may include sales tax, shaken, transfer, snow tyres, car tax, and a couple of other odd revenue raising taxes.

When you go to buy a car you will need to have: money or bank details (!), your hanko, your gaijin card, and a letter/form from your shiyakusho (or equivalent) that says you have parking. If you don't have a parking space - then you've just discovered a new 'extra' to life with cars in japan. A parking space in a big city can easily hit 2man+ per month (and could be a considerable distance from your apartment).

If you don't speak passable japanese - then you will definitely want to take a japanese friend with you.

With or without shaken? IMO, if you are going to be here for a couple of years - it's better to buy without shaken - I've always been able to negotiate this into the price tag. The japanese aren't as flexible in negotiations as salesmen in australia (in my experience) - but you may well be able to get away with 'okay, I'll buy at that price - but you pay the shaken'. They get better deals than us on shaken - so it works out well for both parties. You also get a clean bill of health on the car.

That said, the first thing you should do is get a basic service done on the car (or get it thrown into the deal, where possible - and check that they have done it).

On average (and for an average car), most places charge around 10-11man for shaken + replacement parts. So it can quickly add up. There are discount places who do it for marginally less. You can also do it yourself - for significantly less - but it's not the easiest process in the world, unless you can take a japanese friend with you (or speak pera pera nihongo, and can understand technical kanji, etc).

Car tax - each year this will cost you a significant amount, dependant on the capacity of the engine. With a kei car, you can pay with loose change. Standard cars, however, can get a bit scary. Most of my cars have been around the 3.5-4man mark per year.

For foreigners, insurance is much higher than australia (in my experience) - for my FD I pay (IIRC) a bit over 1.5man per month - and all that gets me is third party, fire & theft. Full coverage is horribly expensive.

Be very very very careful with insurance. Get them to show you EXACTLY what you are getting. With 2nd hand cars, or cars that they consider cheap, you will be expected to be asking for a low level of coverage. I've had to point out to many foreigners what their coverage is - and it's nearly always a shock for them. Even worse when the information comes too late... :)

If you're in a rural area, particularly up north - then check whether or not the car comes with snow tyres. If not, and you need them - then see if they can throw that into the deal (it's another thing that may be easily negotiated).

As for sending the car home, it's not as hard as some people make it out to be - and of course it's cheaper than buying the same car at home - as you've cut out the middleman (who pays the same fees, and adds his premium to the top). The only exception would be cars that are very common on the private sale market - r32s, silvias, soarers, etc - which you may well be better off buying at home.

Personal import fees/taxes/costs include:

* transport to the docks in japan (dependant on location)

* customs and broker fees in japan

* possibly, storage fees in japan

* shipping (relatively cheap for RORO, not so for containers)

* insurance

* customs and broker fees in australia

* 10% import duty (for private imports - this is supposed to be based on an evaluated price for the car - not necessarily what you actually paid)

* 10% GST on the value + freight and customs fees (IMO, the biggest rort of all)

* compliancing (which, for private imports, is far more lenient and cheaper than RAWS compliancing).

that's about all I can think remember at the moment - I've probably forgotten a few key points :)

Has anyone sucessfully privately imported a car back to aus but remained in Japan? I've looked at the rules and seems you have to have proof that you are returning with the car and you have plans of staying in Australia. I'm keen on sending my car back next year but have no plans of leaving Japan just yet.

DaiOni:1.5man/month for insurance? Must be something special. I pay about 4man/year for 3rd party on an Evo and I'm 26. I'll check on the fire/theft thing tonight when I have a look at the policy but I'd be willing to forgo theft while living in Japan (maybe not Australia) for a 14man saving.

That's for the FD. The forester, despite having 260hp, was significantly cheaper. Youngest person on my policy is female, 26 and foreign.

Be very careful with your insurance - I can't stress that highly enough. Compared to australia, comprehensive policies are relatively uncommon (for 2nd hand cars). As well as checking for at fault damage repair for your own cars, check for 'hit and run' (ie: while parked) as well. The only reason I have theft is because it is in 'group B' ('group C' is comprehensive).

I'll check the exact details of the insurance classes when I get home. My wife has got a better memory than me :(

a guy I work with is about to send his fourth car home - so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

I forgot to add two other big bonuses about personal importing...

* the car can be modified

* as it says in the dotar regs - (paraphrasing) 'the imported car doesn't have to conform to ADRs' - which is a 'get out of jail free' card, in terms of defects.

Edited by DaiOni
  • 2 weeks later...

+ (for most people) the middleman mark-up

cost of compliance can be a big saving

+ you can mod the car while you live in japan! and no hassles when it gets back

+ you don't have to comply to ADRs

+ you get to selectively choose the car you want - test drive it, and so on - that's very important for many people

So all in all, it's a winning set of regulations

Of course, for some people there is the great incentive of buying a car, for 'X' amout of dollars, then selling it for 'Y' dollars in oz. There's plenty of profit to be made if you have the motivation and capital.

as for the government - yes they are theiving bastards - especially considering it is often a car that has been owned for some time (I've had my FD for nearly three years), and has already had sales tax applied in the first instance

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...