Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The last few days I've had ALL the warning lights flash on at night. I've had good oil pressure, plenty of oil, good engine temps, nothing seems to be wrong... It has mainly happened when either trning hard, or accelerating hard. ALL the lights come on, even the spare tyre light and windscreen washer light...

Anyone else had this happen? I'm guessing theres a loose wire somewhere maybe?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96447-dr30-dash-warning-lights/
Share on other sites

I had this happen the other week, check the wiring from the alternator to the starter motor and make sure that the but is done up tight!! Mine was earthing out on the support bracket for the plenum and causing all my dash lights to stay on!!!!

Yeah i've had 3 alternators go in about 4 months, got one rebuilt and haven't had issues with it yet, but i don't drive it as much anymore so who knows....

No idea what an alternator is worth Adam, go suss some places out ring around easiest way

Yeah pretty sure it is close to one, just have to change the wiring or something..

I got mine rebuilt by s&b auto electricals, Jacobsen cresent, instead of turning right to go to jaustech, turn left and its behind a furniture place up there if he's still there, if not i'll get the addy of my old boy, he's a mate of my dad's so yer....

same thing happend to me on friday night. 5 mins before i got home my alternator stopped charging, the power cable form the alt to starter had fried...replaced the cable and all is sweet now!

  • 1 month later...

It sounds like the regulator is stuffed though. The alternator should be putting out ~14V throughout the rev range. You aren't doing your electrical system (or your battery) any favours by driving it.

I bet your headlights brighten up nicely when you give it a rev, eh? :P

Depending on your alternator, you will either have an internal or an external regulator. From the factory, they had an external regulator (if memory serves).

My l20et's old alternator used to do this. I was told it was the Rectifier by a few auto electricians. I got another alternator for free and thre it on and it solved alot of problems i had with the vehicle.

My lights are dim as hell, I thought it was getting buggerall voltage, thats why I thought the alternator was stuffed

they probably are getting bugger all voltage, but its more likely down to the crappy old switch gear and low amp cable to the headlights in the factory loom. rewire with relays and serious cable.

changing the alternator is a drive way job son, should take about an hour or so, i wouldn't be stuffing around with changing regulators, if you've got a number for the alternator just get a new alternator, and keep the other one for a spare

  • 3 weeks later...

hey so does anyone have any part numbers for replacement alternators.. or spare parts or anything??? mines now cooked for the second time, only got it rebuilt a couple of days ago, and it died within a few hours of driving...? what gives?

to my knowledge it was rebulit with aussie parts from an MR30..

also does anyone have anything lying around that i might be able to buy as a replacement?

cheers.

dave

also does anyone know of any other alternator off a different vechile that happens to have the same connection at the rear, and same bracket mount points.. because if i can id like to install something with an external regulator to enable the ease of service again at a later date.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...