Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've been using Castrol Synthetic 10W-60 in my '96 R33 GTST SII. Just wondering if you guys think this oil is good for the car..

I DONT want to know "this oil is better than that oil", just if you guys out there think that is oil is good for my car.. ie, is the 10W-60 rating good, if not what rating should i be looking at.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96960-castrol-synthetic-10w-60-opinion/
Share on other sites

To thick for my liking for a good stock engine and road use especialy in winter .Probably good for track use .If you have a built engine with bigger clearances then it maybe good .

To thick for my liking for a good stock engine and road use especialy in winter .Probably good for track use .If you have a built engine with bigger clearances then it maybe good .

OK I give up, isn't the 10W a measure of its cold viscosity?

When I poor 5W30 out of the container it looks pretty much the same thickness as 10W60.

The 60 means it keeps its rating at high temperatures, like a 60W viscosity would.

So the way I understand it 5W30 versus 10W60 is really 5 versus 10 in "thickness" when cold and 30 versus 60 in terms of holding the viscosity at high temperatures.

I thought the 60 meant that the engine COULD run larger tolerances (even when very hot), not that it HAD to run larger tolerances. Isn't it the other way around? If you build the engine with large tolerances and for sustainded high temp work you HAD use 10W60. But if you have an engine with road car tolerances that

doesn't mean you CAN"T use 10W60, it just means you CAN use 5W30.

Personally if I have an engine that has done 100,000 k's or so, I have no idea what tolerances it is now. Using the oil that tolerates the largest tolerance (ie 10W60) would seem logical, as there is no downside from doing so.

Or have the Castrol tech guys been jerking my chain all these years?

:( cheers :P

5w-30 sounds way to light in viscosity for aust climate.

i say 10W-40 is a good compromise.

look in any factory handbook and it will recommend a heavier grade oil in summer and a lighter weight oil in winter.

a find it hard to beleive a 30 weight oil will protect much at all with our hot weather. i beleive it will shear and break down at high temps. if you have an effective frount mount oil cooler and you can keep temps stable then it may not be as much of a concern.

i find it hard to beleive that a true racing car will use something as broad as a 10w-60 rating.

its common fact that an oil is more stable when its high and low viscosity ratings are within a close range or preferably a monograde.

i.e a quick look on the net reveals strictly as an example, penzoil racing oil that comes in 3 flavours SAE50 SAE60 and a 25W-50 for cars where cold starts happen more frequently.

not that any of that matters for a street car.

just adding to the conversation, more then anything :D

I run that stuff - good so far. I do alot of highway and city peak hour driving so i wanted a thicker oil for sustained high temp work, aswell as the option of track days. Was a bit worried that it was too thick but glad i'm not the only one who likes using it...

I generally have not had good experience with the 10w60.

I generally try to stick to something around the same as the recommended rating (7.5w30).

What are these not so positive experiences you speak of?

Remembering that is the recommended rating for a car built to be used in Japan and Japan only. Climate is a little different here to over there. . . . The added extra heat (especially up here in QLD) would usually mean using a slightly heavier oil. I use 15-50 Motul 300V but my car only comes out for fun these days, no daily driving duties any more.

Before I was using Motul 4100 10-40, Castrol 10-60 sound fine for a car that gets used for general duties as well as some possible fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinda glad I never got to this ..    https://www.facebook.com/groups/1483859159195077
    • @GTSBoy This method was able to get readings of -10 to -2, so it looks like its monitoring.  Now I need to figure out why the vacuum on the line provided isn't alternating with manifold pressure.  I went with 2 lines that an RB25 tuner recommended but I'll get a longer hose and try directly off the back of the manifold.  He may have been used to OEM intake setups while I have a DBW setup that removed the MAF and IACV.  
    • I work at a car detailing and tinting shop called Quark which gets all manner of German cars in usually (mainly due to a contract with Mercedes Benz Kita Osaka, BMW Nishinomiya and others) but every once in a while something special comes in, like a fully restored 1972 HS30 Nissan Fairlady 240ZG... The shop owner had immediately started applying film to the windows as soon as it was in the shop so the interior was completely covered in towels and plastic sheets. But I could get a few photos of the engine bay which was restored like new. Such an amazing car to see in pristine condition in Japan these days.  
    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
×
×
  • Create New...