Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

looking at getting a r32. been in love with skylines for a while but not until a week or so ago i test drove a r33 gtst manual. I was expecting a lot but was kinda dissapointed. It didnt seem to have much go at all. I also didnt realise they weighed so much 1400 odd kg. not a commodore fan but i have one(vkwagon) unmodifed 308 auto with lsd .its crap but fast ,

my point is my $2500 commodore has raced kicked the shit out of r33 r32 wrxs and others .

i was so excited in getting a r32 but what do i have to do to make it move ?

cheers john

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97414-thinking-of-getting-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

u know y? coz they were GTST. dont call skylines slow till u test drive a GTR. (no offense to any GTST owners.) but they r the true spirit of skyline.

kinda agree with u tho; had more grunt with a s15 than a GTST R33. dunno y.

as a matter of fact, GTRs r as heavy as the GTSTs, but RB26 makes the difference( they r completely different engines from RB25)

again, there r quick RB25s around; it will cost a bit money, and getting the power down is another issue when it goes over 350+hp on the rear wheels. Internally, Rb25s r not as strong either.

Rb20s r different; never done any work to it so i cant say anything. but the usual mods will increase the performance but dont know by how much.

S13 r great cars; personally i prefer the SR20 to the Rb20; they r light and have so much fun to drive; and after all, u can find mods designed for them easily.

my opinion any way. :)

Edited by frankxy

one thing i know for sure, Cold air intake(try a pod filter in a heat shield), a FMIC(be carefully with choosing the right one coz shitty ones will only increase the lag especially when u run the stock turbo), Wind the boost up to around 12psi which is safe enough, do the exhaust( dump pipe, hi-flow cat, and exhaust), u will get a significant power increase. usually u can tell the difference with the power of the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...