Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I'm pretty sure that for my next mod I want to replace my SMIC rather than go the full FM.

I've seen a company called ARC that make an aftermarket SMIC which is apparently 30% bigger than stock. Are there any other manufacturers out there that have a similar product?

Pretty my I just wanna fit the largest SMIC in using the existing piping

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97504-smic-for-r33/
Share on other sites

is it a case of the stock SMIC is not good enough or the stock position is not good enough. Is there enough airflow to the core with 200rwkw, as around that level on stock rb25 is a higher level of stock boost, which i would presume heat up the intake charge, so you would want the SMIC doing the best it can, just wondering if its able to do so in the stock position

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97504-smic-for-r33/#findComment-1771303
Share on other sites

paul, the advantage of the SMIC is that you have unimpeded airflow thru to the wheelarch and no hot radiator sitting behind it. a relatively short pipe run back helps response (which i reckon i can feel now i have an FMIC)

the disadvantage is the surface area to volume ratio isn't as favourable (vs FMIC) for heat exchange in the space. the trust unit has plenty of scope to go > 200rwkw.

given the cost of installing a FMIC vs SMIC they are a viable option for folks looking for good streetable power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97504-smic-for-r33/#findComment-1771987
Share on other sites

Paul r33. The problem with the stock smic is not the positino. It's fine. It's nicely ducted. There are two problems with it:

1. it's restrictive. That is, the cross sectional area is small, so it doesn't flow very well at high boost. That's why it's common to have a 2 psi drop at 12 psi. at stockish boost (like 8psi, it's not noticeable).

2. It doesn't cool very well. This is becaause it's so small. Need I say more?

A larger smic, is both thicker, taller and maybe even wider. I have an r34 smic. It's 20 mm thicker and I think about 1 inch taller (from memory, so someone correct me if i'm wrong).

It has been worked out that the cross sectional area is 60% better, so it should be less restrictive. Furthermore, the extra thickness and height means it has more cooling surgace

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97504-smic-for-r33/#findComment-1772515
Share on other sites

Thanks Guys. Gonna go sound mount then. I still have the stock airbox aswell and thinking about replacing it with a pod. Would that just be a waste of time considering I won't have the CAI that I would get if I was running a FMIC ? Would the POD/SMIC combination be a crappy combo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97504-smic-for-r33/#findComment-1777230
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
×
×
  • Create New...